I heard when you said shipping back to China was too darned expensive !
Well, at least they are willing to send you a driver. Better luck than I had with Banggood who sent out a new Klarus Mi7 with turbo mode DOA. I FINALLY got another USA based Klarus vendor that offered a new head from their inventory.
Klarus in Europe, or where ever they are, reimbursed them.
Now that ās warranty service. Banggood NOT so much.
Mine kinda did stuff like that after I made it a triple. Iām not sure about the stepping down part but high amps seems to mess with the driver. Sorry Iām not much help but at least give a bump to the thread.
I want to attempt the spring mod but these directions are not clear.
I thought at first I was just soldering a wire from one spring end to the other. After looking into it more, it appears that Iām going to have to remove and resolder the switch and one end of the wire goes on a certain switch arm.
Now Iām very confused.
Does someone have a detailed guide on how to do the spring mod?
Iāll just put this here for comment. Itās been an interesting first couple of weeks with my first BLF A6 XPL. Out of the box, it didnāt work. I noticed the head, fully tightened, didnāt even start to cover the O-ring, and it it rattled. I naively just tightened the threaded retaining ring. It only took 1/16 turn, but the rattle stopped, and it worked!
The head still wasnāt covering the O-ring on the body tube, and the retaining ring had to be tightened every time I unscrewed the head (all 3 times).
So, a few days ago, I finally loosened the retaining ring a half turn and tried to center (it was way off) the driver, and it went down a mm or so. I re-tightened the ring, and it works much better now. Now the O-ring is completely covered, so itās probably much more waterproof.
I realize thatās a pretty minor issue, but it was frustrating, and I had a hard time getting to like this light. Another reason only enthusiasts and not the average consumer are the target market.
Got a funky driver issue hopefully somebody has had and fixed. Kind of randomly switches back to mode memory. Iāll cycle through and turn mode memory off it will work like it should for a while then all of a sudden boom mode memory. I guess I could live with it but really prefer it to always start low.
The spring has resistance as do the traces on the switch pcb. Your original notion of a wire from the top of the spring to the bottom is one way to do it and very commonly done. Drilling through the switch pcb to bring the wire all the way to the end of the switch that connects to the center pad will reduce the resistance slightly more. All the switch does is connect the outside trace of the switch pcb to the center pad. Donāt overthink it.
Basically you need to pick one or the other. Your first thought is the easier method. Look again at the first post on here and see which one suits you but be aware conneting your switch to the spring takes some electrical knowledge.
Hey guys just got my blf a6 from BG. Seems this latest model has dual tail springs(smaller spring nested inside larger spring). would the bypass still be necessary or helpful? Iām guessing the dual springs helps with current flow. Searched thread and didnt see any mention of dual tail springs.
BTW- what you have created here is one hell of a light ,
When I put in on my shelf the Nitecore EC20 ran and hid behind the 18650ās.
Helpful yes, necessary no. Itās only really necessary in cases where thereās already high amp draw like with DD triples that will overheat the springs without this mod. I left mine stock, it gets hot enough that way as it is. If youāre wanting 4A or more then by all means do it, especially with a regulated driver like a stacked 7135 or LD-x.
Sounds like a bad mcu if it wonāt hold a program setting. I donāt think any if the external components would affect that but just a guess. Probably need a new driver to fix it.
Same as any other linear driver I think. Replace D1 with 200 ohm resistor and stack Zener on C1. To keep low voltage detection you need to change the R1/R2 voltage divider. I think itās somewhere around 20-22k for R2.
I made zener mod on 105c driver. Iāve got 5.6a on MT-G2 led , but after 10 seconds 7135 chips overheated and current drops down to 3.3a - this is termal throttling.
No, the FET doesnāt limit the current so thereās no heat. Current is determined by battery voltage and led Vf. At least according to the 7135 data sheets they can handle up to 2V over Vf but practically speaking itās much less. To achieve more requires more heat sinking dedicated to the 7135ās, a lot more.