What diameter is driver :)
This is a popular model, owned by many : http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-lux-meter-with-stand-200000lux-5100
With a luxmeter you will always measure the output, and how the reflector and the glass come into play. Tailcap currents are relative, the multimeter's resistance, leads resistance, driver efficiency, etc. The glass can cut even 10% of the lux, at that point approximating the throw and the brightness on the tailcap currents is not accurate at all.
Also, it can show 4A on the multimeter but if the driver has a 75% efficiency that's is 3A to the LED.
Okay, some dimensions.
On the emitter side (above), the OD of the pill appears to be approximately 32mm, and it looks like it screws in from the top. I think this side has a lip that seats on a ledge on the inside body of the head. The board on the top has an approximate size of 15mm. This was taken as a rough measurement across the white disc covering the emitter board.
On the driver side (above), the driver appears to have an approximate size of 17mm, but this measurement was taken from the OD of the aluminum ring that appears to be holding the drop in in place from the underside of this pill. The indents on this ring are not very deep, so screwing it off might be problematic for me unless I deepen them. Yes, that little scratch is evidence of my one short attempt at screwing this off to get a look at the inside.
As can be seen from the markings, the driver board is marked East-092B. The pill from this underside is approximately 29mm in diameter (maybe the threads add another 1mm?).
I have a tr003p4 http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/trustfire-multifunction-liion-battery-charger-tr003p4-110240vdc12v-eu-plug-p-8639
I to not have the TR003, but you probably may apply the sample technique as yavi with his TR01 https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/5251#comment-99107
Or you can use 2 wires that on each end have a small magnet. A red wire for the positive end and a black one for the negative end.
Like these: http://martinwhite.name/images/February_04_2011/thumb/web/IMG_5955.JPG
So you would use an extender practically, from the contacts in the charger to the contacts on the battery.
Dammit, another host that I might have to buy and mod. I'm really impressed by the throw compared to the C88. Thanks for the pictures Night Breaker!
Don't forget that the C88 here was modded with an XM-L and was not a standard XR-E Q5 C88. Given this is it that surprising that the XM-L light with the huge reflector size advantage, the 2010, walked all over the other XM-L light, the C88?
I got this flashlight. :)
Some measures:
>5,5A !!! (more pressure on battery = more Ampere)
@1m = 38000 Lux
Reflector (outer size: 58x38)
Lens 58
26650 fits
Body: 160 x 63
After modding:
XM-L U2 1C on copper base
3,74A Driver 2-Mode (KD 7135 V2 driver with 2 extra 7135)
Contact tuning at driver and clicky (bypass springs with wires)
@1m = 50000 Lux
Problem was, that the 7135 driver was too high and don´t fit.
I take a brass ring and pressed that in the pill, then i could solder the driver in.
Wow! :D
And 38K candela in stock form. Hmm. I need to get a HD2010 + 2 king kong + charger.
Thank you guys for doing all this reporting. I have been looking for a 1 cell, large reflector thrower and this fits the bill!
@ Andi
Did you measure Amps in other than high mode?? And what about overall quality of the light?
Thank you in advance.
I got 2 lights, the other has 32000Lux....the lens and LED was really dirty.
At this light i only chanched the LED (XM-L U2 1C on copper) and bypass springs, now it has also 50000 Lux.
The >5,5A i measured with Solarforce battery, with XTAR i measure "only" ~3,5A.
With SF i get a short time 58000 Lux, but goes to 50000 Lux very fast.
With XTAR it´s 50000 Lux.
My visacard just flexed.... It is trembling.
Another question: The U2 bin XML on copper - is that the one from ledtech.de ? (As far as I remember) that you wrote about in another thread (I found the best U2 you wrote - or somthing to that effect)
And a third - could you show a picture of the "bypass" operation on the springs? Is that "just" a matter of getting some copper wick/wire soldered to the top and the switch?
Thank you for your time Andi, it is really nice of you to share with us all like this :bigsmile:
It´s the U2 from LED-Tech, yes. (middle of the LED is directly soldered on the copper base)
With "bypass springs" i mean, i solder a wire directly on the board and the other end on top of the spring, or directly to the brass plug.
Gives max. Ampere without squeeze the spring and with lower Volts the Ampere also higher.
I just have received my Ultrafire HD 2010, and I'm quite happy with it. Overall quality looks good, threads are smooth but need some oil.
Colour is titanium grey, which looks great. I have ordered it at Tmart, packaging was ok, no damage.
I will get some Sony US26650VT LI-Mn for the DH2010.
My HD2010 had much little scratches and dents, most around the bezel and tailcap.
Now, after some sandpapers....
....it looks more expensive. 
Thanks all of you for your information and Pics.
I ordered from DX but for many days It's still "Backorder" so I canceled 
Cool! Anyone know anything about Easylightbuy.com? I also found this Ultrafire version at shenzhen-wholesale.com. Think I will stick with the Fandyfire version.
-Garry
oh, this is a new site for me. There are some unique, and well-priced light.
http://www.easylightbuy.com/handy-high-power-cree-q3-led-3mode-torch-with-clip_p212.html
http://www.easylightbuy.com/portable-cree-xml-t6-led-5mode-flashlight-torch-wa666_p1912.html
and the triple xm-l hd2010 only for $43.62
http://www.easylightbuy.com/szobm-zy1600-3x-cree-xml-t6-5-modes-led-flashlight-torch_p876.html
EDIT:
could not insert thumbnails, so here's the link to the gallery
and just a few close-up pics:
With the sony LI-Mn 26650 works great, more then 6 amps maximum. I have to check, if this is healthy for the flashlight... maybe I get a better driver. It seems to be DD on full power. There are three minor scratches, two of them are hard to see.
with a fresh sony 26650, I have measured about 6,6 amps, I think in real life with tailcap it draws less amps (resistance of switch, spring etc). I will see if I get an other driver.
With a half full battery, after 25 mins. tailstand the flashlight didn't got very hot (about 30 deg. C). the battery doesn't get very warm like that.
the 26650 has a capacity of about 2600 mah (last charge with 1,8a). at about 2,8v, it gets darker, and at about 2,74v it switched off. so for a Li-Mn, that's safe (min. 2,5v). But this is just a first look, will have to test more.