Anyone tried slicing the dome on a G3? Does it improve things at all?
Paining the lower part of the reflector is an interesting idea. I have a ton of spare S2+ Reflectors from swapping in TIR’s lenses, I might try that if I can come up with a paint to use and a way to apply it.
The light has a 4000K 80CRI (Samsung LH351B) led which strictly spoken just gives a correct comparison for that that specific spectrum (can be translated as: colour temp/CRI) and does not see possible differences in wavelength sensitivity for our set-ups (which is dependent on the quality of the reflecting inner surface of the measuring device and on how correct the wavelength sensitivity of the luxmeter follows the agreed Vlambda curve). In other words, a cool white led and a very warm white led may have a somewhat different multiplier between us than the 4000K 80CRI led that we calibrate at.
Yeah, it should also scatter it into the main beam and could improve the main bean tint as well if it is a very matt finish. The issue is how to get a pure white, flat matte, paint that can be easily applied with precision.
Maybe a markout market for “erasing pen ink”? Any good ideas?
I believe it’s called “white out”
It’s very good for this purpose because little light penetrates it, but is reflected.
Iḿ only worried about how good it will stick to reflector surface and without cracking (crackling?) over time
Maybe ‘monodek’ latex wall paint is better
Or it just hit me, what if I made an extra tall centering ring that covered the base of the dome, I could even make it too tall and sand it down as needed. Could this work basically the same? It would reduce total output more then painting the reflector obviously but would be a heck of a lot easier.
That’s what i meant with ‘high collar spacer gasket’.
But how to get the nylon or plastic not translucent and matte / flat?
Or is that ‘splitting hairs’?
Here is a thread on the PVC sphere for those interested, like I said it is really not all that different then a normal PVC setup, but the little things can make all the difference.
lol, wasn’t me, I was not even aware they had any in stock. Although I was not real impressed with the 5000k tint to be honest, it seemed a lot cooler then that so I want to go for 4000k when I order them. I have not been able to find any for sale other then mouser and digikey though and I don’t plan on making an order from them for a little bit.
I have my eyes on the 4000k 80cri 3 step binned versions I see floating around. They are V3 instead of V5 but usually the better CRI is well worth the drop in output for me.
Got in a dozen 4000K's (V5 E5) from Arrow. Installed one in a modded ThorFire JM07, OP reflector, 40 mm head diam. It's got a FET+1, SIR800DP, 20 AWG LED wires, UCLp lens, and updated the firmware to latest Narsil v1.2. It's pretty nice - yes, has a yellowish halo around the hot spot, but the hotspot and spill area look pretty nice. Just tried it outdoors a bit, and the yellowish area really isn't much of an issue, in fact not really bad.
It pulled 7.8A on a LK 26650 @4.17V, 1,910 lumens on turn-on, 1,820 @30 secs. The output is about the same as the U4 1C it replaced when it was new, lower just before the mod on the same cell, but of course the tint is way better.
The JM07 is like a UltraFire F-13 as it should have been - tailswitch, side switch, real SS bezel, uni-body, good tailstander, nice anodizing. Exactly the same as the Shadow here: http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1690, but got the Amazon deal on it - real cheap, think about $12.
Interesting - got an email from Arrow, say'n they'll send me a free Arrow hoodie - filled out the form, looks good, we'll see.