The light has a 4000K 80CRI (Samsung LH351B) led which strictly spoken just gives a correct comparison for that that specific spectrum (can be translated as: colour temp/CRI) and does not see possible differences in wavelength sensitivity for our set-ups (which is dependent on the quality of the reflecting inner surface of the measuring device and on how correct the wavelength sensitivity of the luxmeter follows the agreed Vlambda curve). In other words, a cool white led and a very warm white led may have a somewhat different multiplier between us than the 4000K 80CRI led that we calibrate at.
If you use flat white paint, that light is not lost but will be fairly evenly distributed in the spill.
Yeah, my idea with the 219c’s was we would 100% know they were the same bin/tint for both of us and thus be the most accurate comparison.
This light is an even better idea though. I am curious to see what the results are.
Yeah, it should also scatter it into the main beam and could improve the main bean tint as well if it is a very matt finish. The issue is how to get a pure white, flat matte, paint that can be easily applied with precision.
Maybe a markout market for “erasing pen ink”? Any good ideas?
Is Tipp-Ex something that is known over where you are?
I believe it’s called “white out”
It’s very good for this purpose because little light penetrates it, but is reflected.
Iḿ only worried about how good it will stick to reflector surface and without cracking (crackling?) over time
Maybe ‘monodek’ latex wall paint is better
Yes, white-out was what I was talking about, the brand name escaped me.
Or it just hit me, what if I made an extra tall centering ring that covered the base of the dome, I could even make it too tall and sand it down as needed. Could this work basically the same? It would reduce total output more then painting the reflector obviously but would be a heck of a lot easier.
That’s what i meant with ‘high collar spacer gasket’.
But how to get the nylon or plastic not translucent and matte / flat?
Or is that ‘splitting hairs’?
I print up my own spacers all the time, I have a choice of colors but I think white will work fine. I just have to make one extra tall.
Ok, I just updated the OP with these updated charts, everyone think these are good?
Looks good!
Here is a thread on the PVC sphere for those interested, like I said it is really not all that different then a normal PVC setup, but the little things can make all the difference.
Who has bought all the XP-L2 5000K from Kaidomain? :cry:
I wanted to buy some too!
Texas_Ace perhaps? 
lol, wasn’t me, I was not even aware they had any in stock. Although I was not real impressed with the 5000k tint to be honest, it seemed a lot cooler then that so I want to go for 4000k when I order them. I have not been able to find any for sale other then mouser and digikey though and I don’t plan on making an order from them for a little bit.
I have my eyes on the 4000k 80cri 3 step binned versions I see floating around. They are V3 instead of V5 but usually the better CRI is well worth the drop in output for me.
Dang! Just noticed that last night. V6 bin no less.... If it's real - no pic of the CREE labeling for those. Hhmm....
Got in a dozen 4000K's (V5 E5) from Arrow. Installed one in a modded ThorFire JM07, OP reflector, 40 mm head diam. It's got a FET+1, SIR800DP, 20 AWG LED wires, UCLp lens, and updated the firmware to latest Narsil v1.2. It's pretty nice - yes, has a yellowish halo around the hot spot, but the hotspot and spill area look pretty nice. Just tried it outdoors a bit, and the yellowish area really isn't much of an issue, in fact not really bad.
It pulled 7.8A on a LK 26650 @4.17V, 1,910 lumens on turn-on, 1,820 @30 secs. The output is about the same as the U4 1C it replaced when it was new, lower just before the mod on the same cell, but of course the tint is way better.
The JM07 is like a UltraFire F-13 as it should have been - tailswitch, side switch, real SS bezel, uni-body, good tailstander, nice anodizing. Exactly the same as the Shadow here: http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1690, but got the Amazon deal on it - real cheap, think about $12.
Interesting - got an email from Arrow, say'n they'll send me a free Arrow hoodie - filled out the form, looks good, we'll see.
Great thread! This could be amazing in a 2-cell host like the ZY-T08 with an LD-2/3 that can crank out stable high current.
Very nice results!
The tint shift is something that doesn’t really bother me as well, unless inside white wall hunting. Outside it is a non-issue for most things.
Also good to see your numbers lining up with mine, minus the ~10% reflector/glass losses it is pretty darn close.
I wish there was a true standard we could all use to calibrate our spheres to to make the numbers truly comparable. I fully admit that mine is simply the best guess I could come up with based on the lights I had access to. I am really curious what the light from Djozz compares on my sphere.