Thanks May and Dale for the detective work!
Thanks Dale for your comparison . Really good output and efficiency . I’ll have a look too at the Manker U21 tomorrow .
Thanks again.
Nice! Thought the new, improved Manker lowered the output and amps from earlier U21's reviewed. So both are pretty off in their specs now from the 1,300 lumens and 124 kcd listed performance specs. I'd assume the CW model was rated at 1,300, not the NW, but still it's quite a bit of difference.
The oval shaped finned head is interesting. It’s thinner with the switch/usb charger section on top, as compared to a full circle on the Manker. This means the UT02 is 42.5mm thick when sideways and the U21 is 45.3mm in the same area.
Still learning to use the lathe I know how simple it is, comparatively, to turn a circle but that oval shape is pretty neat! The fins are deeper on the Manker due to this, but this light is not a huge furnace anyway, with the emitter seeing less than 1A.
If you have intentions to modify the light and use a different emitter/driver at higher amps, perhaps the Manker design would have perks in that regard. 
Many thanks for the great comparison Dale. Time to head back for my abandoned shopping cart 
Ok, now I’m confused.
I plugged the Utorch in to a 2A outlet on my computer and charged an Efest 26650 to top it off. The switch glowed red while charging, went to blue when done, and the light was, of course, off. BUT, when I unplugged the cord from the computer the light came on and wouldn’t turn off or change at all until I broke connection by unscrewing the battery tube a bit!!!
I tried the Manker, the Efest in it was charged so it showed blue right off the top, but again, upon uplugging the cord the light came on and was unresponsive until I broke cell contact! What’s up with that?
Edit: In both lights, they resumed normal operation after breaking contact.
My UT02 light comes on when you remove it from the charger , but you can close it or change mode easily .
Edit : Checking it now again
Ok, I just discovered on both lights that simply holding the switch like normal to turn it off does so and when you turn it back on it works like always.
So, unplugging from the USB turns the light on in low mode, it’s unresponsive until you turn it off then back on, where it works as usual. Odd. Consistent, but still… never seen that before. Never seen “breathe” before either, and the dragon eye look of the Manker switch is really cool in this regard. lol
Thanks for the comparisons Dale, but are you sure you didn’t mix up the tail caps? It seems very odd to me that the manker spring pcb doesn’t have branding but the utorch does, pretty ironic 
The auto-on after disconnect behavior is also on the manker U11, first thought to be only in defective lights but many people reported this in perfect working units.
Oh, I’m 100% positive the tail cap marked with Manker branding is on the Utorch… the outside is branded UT02 on that tail cap, can’t really miss THAT!
FWIW, the Moli 26700 fits in both lights.
“When I took the tail cap off the Utorch UT02, SURPRISE! It clearly says Manker on the pcb the spring is on!
Oddly enough, looking at the tail cap off the Manker it Does Not say Manker! lol”
This world is messed up rofl. What’s next? A Manker light named Utorch…
The Manker U21’s “dragon eye”
SOOC
With the lights on, I see some unclean issues inside… Any guesses which one is worse?
The Utorch has a film on the inside of the lens but the reflector is incredible. The Manker has a finger touch/smudge on the reflector, one major and one minor. 
Maybe a Manker light with Utorch pcb?
Is it possible to swap the Utorch with Manker’s switch cover? The dragon eye looks cooler, imo.
I have even installed a rubber boot from L6 in mine
The finger smudges on the reflector of the U21…
Both lights reflectors are like large versions of the Manker X6, threaded and with the ramped o-ring shelf on top, the bezel pushes the lens against the o-ring which in turn seals against the reflector and flares against the sides of the bezel. I like this design.
The above 3 pics are from the Utorch, below are from the Manker…
On both lights, the bezel text lines up with the switch, very nice, the Manker battery tube flat with the name on it also lines up.
Very odd but I am unable to unscrew Manker battery tube from head. No matter how much force I use it won’t let…
Looks like some epoxy from driver catch the threads and it’s stacked?
On UT02 driver is just pressed to fit no glue at all.
If manker bumped down the current because of problems, it makes me question the driver in general. I was going to resistor mod the ut02 but maybe I shouldn’t just yet.
I could just give it a go and see how it lasts but I like the UI and would hate to ruin it. But then again… Can you sense my inner termoil? :cry: …The output is just too low for this form factor. My U11 at half the size puts out as much light. But the beam on the ut02 is pretty nice. See… here we go :person_facepalming:
Has anyone posted any beam shots with an XPL in one of these lights?
Thanks for the comparison dale!
I have the same question about the driver.
Can it be beefed up?
I mean only 1 Ampere means it’s only about 11 Watts, doesn’t it?
Then why bother with a XHP35? An XP-L can do 11 Watts too, and without the losses of a boost driver (but with the losses of a linear driver burning off excess voltage).
And can the driver handle 8.4 Volts?