Those flashlights got almost identical switches, it should fit without or little modification
+1
I wonder if it’s ok for the Convoy S2+.
Wasn’t the tail PCB all ready for some LEDs for lighted tailcap?
Could check my V1 the day after tomorrow but I remember a pic from a review making it look that part only needs some little LEDs
Driver is something else of course 
bump
Any idea someone?
BG’s lighted switch specs say it has Diameter 17mm and (as I see at Simon’s AE store) Convoy S2+ switch must have D=16mm.
As I’m trying to do my first mod on an S2, can someone tell me if this 17mm lighted switch can fit to S2 I wanna mod? Will some simple DIY trimming to it’s diameter make it fit easily?
Just ordered one of these:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/19mm-Purple-Ring-Illuminated-Pushbutton-Switches-Stainless-Steel-Momentary-1NO-1NC/32441852658.html
Nice, but what did you buy them for? They’re not click on=click off, they’re on as long as you push the button … The only application I can see is for calling the elevator you must be constructing yourself
I explained earlier:
I will only use the top bit: the outer ring, the translucent ring and the button. And a bit of the threaded part.
The switch i will not use.
I will cut it off under the nut (moer), it will use just a mm more space than a normal slicone boot inside the tailcap.
(at least, that’s the plan…
If it’s impossible maybe i could put it ‘as is’ in my Courui)
Sounds interesting! Please let us follow your progress
same here ordered it and waiting to see if it will fit ,i will let you know.
Correct, it will physically fit with minor sanding.
The S2+ with metal button is a special case though, the little plastic ring lets very little light through.With that old design, the light will either be too dim to be visible, or draw so much power it won’t be worth it at all.
Have fun tinkering, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
I will.
And when it’s all too different from what i expect, i will just build that private elevator. 
PS: The nut probably isn’t gonna fit, so i will make it a ring shape or just glue the lot in place with grey epoxy.
We’ll see.
Modders, I’ve been wondering what would be the best tool for retaining ring removal and thought I would ask here instead before I bend all my tweezers tip :person_facepalming:
TIA
This retaining ring on Tool Ti doesn’t seem want to budge :weary:
Needle nose pliers (is that what they’re called?) would be good.
Haven’t got one myself, did have one like it but with flat bits, but can’t seem to find anywhere… (lost in some unknown dimension)
Have one with a bent beak though.
But i usually use my sturdy tweezers.
Sometimes i drill the holes a little wider for pointed pliers.
My Leatherman has rather small tips too.
I usually get it turned loose eventually.
But sometimes those rings are threaded anti clockwise…
Yeah I haven’t met a retaining ring yet that was a match for a set of small precision needlenose pliers. I find tweezers easier and faster to maneuver, but they just don’t have the strength for breaking rings loose, or fully tightening them. So I always start with my needlenose to break the ring loose, then switch to the long electronics tweezers to spin it out the rest of the way.
A very important point. Convoy especially likes to do this. Be careful.
I bought a couple of the BG switches linked above. They seem decent quality. I put one in an old tube light, and indeed it does work. Unfortunately, the light it gives off is a very dim blue, and the light has become the dreaded next mode memory. It does work though.
I cancelled the order for the 19mm switch.
I received my S41S XP-G3 today (yippee! BRIGHT!!) and it’s not gonna fit.
So now i ordered a 16mm switch instead, because the hole in the tailcap is just 14mm, so 16mm is enough.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/16mm-12V-LED-Illuminated-Momentary-Push-Button-Switch-Short-Body-total-length-21mm/32440604575.html
The switch PCB already has pads to solder SMD LEDs and resistors on by the way.
But the switch itself is rather flimsy i.m.o.
I’d like this too, I’ll pm you after the holidays…, no rush…
fit just fine,the switch lights ,but i cant power on the flashlight (need to mod it i guess with resistor),the only problem is the aluminimum spacer between the switch and the rubber block lot of light,of course you can drill it.
If your light won’t come on at all there’s some other issue besides the bleeder resistor. Are you sure the switch board is making a good connection to the flashlight body?
thanks for point it out,update some sand paper and now its perfect fit before i thought was ok but it wasnt ,now works just fine with this driver ,all modes are working.