Fake NITECORE Chargers [2016]

Sharing. I have a D2 and a old D4, both from the same seller.
D4 dont have the verification code in the box. Above the barcode, in the box, have a ’SYSMAX Industry Co. Ltd…
Inside the PCB its a SYSMAX too and dont have any Nitecore component. But the magnet test, cable and box its ok. The power socket its similar to my D2 above.
The D2 have the verification code, box, magnet test, cable, and more, all ok. But the power socket its:

Sorry for the poor photo, my cell phone its broken. If anyone needs I dismount both and take some photos.

Lol, I think I have an i4 fake that I bought from an ebay seller that is now gone. Time to throw that charger in the bin thanks to this thread. Will stick with Xtar from reputable dealers from now on.

That sovket is ok its the older version of the D2

Thank you :+1:

Not that I know of.

look at the corrosion on that crooked switch!

Does anyone know if either of these two are fake?

$19 sold by Amazon:

$15 sold by “EASTSHINE”
https://www.amazon.com/Bundle-Nitecore-Charger-Universal-EASTSHINE/dp/B00WLMRW9W

My crap-core now has a screw loose.

I inserted a pair of 18650b’s equally drained to 3.6 v.
In one slot, the battery is charging ok, while in the other the charging stopped at 3.72v, showing 3 solid LEDs.

Sometimes it mistakes a Ni-MH cell for a Li-ion and overheats it pretty much, so I have to keep an eye on it - if the third LED does not start flashing after several hours - I pull the battery out and measure the voltage with а DMM.

Beware of this crap, guys.

Sorry to hear that, are you going to try to buy a real one to replace it?

mrstealyourgains
I have an Imax b6 mini and a Liitokala, so I use crap-core only because it lies around

That validation page,
Validation page: Validation link

Linked on second page here,
ID Guide

Do not work.

They have this, but sort of render the use of that code useless, but maybe I missing something here?

This inf on this page is sort of a drop in the ocean,
Authentic dealers

-lyse99

Validation page works
I did valid my Nitecore D4 there

Thanks for the info.
Now it worked, tried it a couple of days when I tried before.
I did post to there support about it earlier also, probably like many others :slight_smile:

And it was nice to know get/confirmed it was a legit charger.

-lyse99

I have the same thing regarding the magnetic parts on my D4, only the positive is non-magentic, negative and the rails are magnetic and the validation check says:

"Invalid request! Registration unsuccessful.
This product with serial number of 8462548401078217 had been registered for warranty service on (03-01-2015 11:30) . If the first verification attempt wasn't carried out by you, please contact your seller before taking further action."

I googled my code and got a few hits including this:

"Finally, after validating the scratch code 8462 5484 0107 8217 on our validation page(http://charger.nitecore.com/validation), it showed that the first-time validation happened in last year and not operated by our sales! That means it is a counterfeit charger!!!"

"In this case, we think many counterfeit chagers are using this fake validation code( 8462 5484 0107 8217)!"

I see there is also an earlier post with someone who also got a charger with the same validation code

What is the correct max termination voltage for AAA and AA Nimh cells?

LMGTFY

http://lygte-info.dk/info/batteryChargingNiMH%20UK.html

Thanks, I had a good look around Google wasn't anything concrete apart from the charge rate, that link seems to imply that just below 1.6v is a suitable termination voltage?

Basically the charger shouldn’t cook the cells, too much heat kills them.

I charged my Duracell AA's on my new fake D4 and the cells didn't get overly warm, the termination voltage was just around 1.56v, the charging has finished and the 4 cells are now at 1.5/1.5/1.51/1.5v

Curiosity got the better of me and I opened my D4 up, I found my "NITE COKE"

Some weird white power all over the board and all the capacitors are stamped NITECORE, so there goes that.

Also I confirmed via a Google search that only the battery negative should be magnetic, the contact rail should not.

Here are some pics of my NITE COKE's main board: