H17F - programmable driver with full thermal regulation

[Drift_Monkey]

@RMM

@Drift Monkey

Can anyone tell me what approximate amps I should expect this driver to pull in FET/DD while powering a single XP-L HI? I’m trying to decide if 30Qs would be worth getting over my current GAs.

I depends largely on the total resistance of your circuit, but with a good bypassed tailcap spring and GA I would expect around 5A. You might get 0.5A-1A more from a 30Q.

Yeah, the spring would be bypassed. Hmmm…that doesn’t seem like it would be a huge visible impact. That being said, 30Qs are cheap enough to pick up down the line and see for myself.

Thanks for the input RMM!

[mattlward]

Found out something interesting last night! This driver works with the PD68 2 LED lighted tailcap!!! Stock driver and basic tailcap.

I consider this a win and may make choking the price of a few more of the down easier!

Matt

[Stereodude]

So how does the thermal regulation work? It steps down a full level (of the 24 programmable modes)? Or it just dynamically decreases the PWM to maintain their thermal target but can do it in a far more granular fashion than the programmable levels?

[mattlward]

Not sure how it works, very granular though. The only change I would like to see is mode reversal with a longer press.

[Pavlo]

Is there any plans to develop the same driver without the FET/DD option?
The PID is the main feature that makes it stand out from most drivers but this is not available in a standard linear driver.

Ultimately, would this driver be safe to use on a single Nichia 219C R9050 in a 1 x 18650 build. I am reading that the Nichia 219C should not be run on DD as it can easily overheat.

Thanks

[Terry_White]

Grrrr, I just got up from my night shift nap. This one i actually knew.

We use to goof around with it in the old IRC cjat rooms using different open source chat clients.

Oh well... early bird gets the worm.

Congrats.

When can I purchase?

[Terry_White]

5LMAO see how asleep I still am. This was long done. Lol

[RMM]

@Pavlo

Is there any plans to develop the same driver without the FET/DD option? The PID is the main feature that makes it stand out from most drivers but this is not available in a standard linear driver. Ultimately, would this driver be safe to use on a single Nichia 219C R9050 in a 1 x 18650 build. I am reading that the Nichia 219C should not be run on DD as it can easily overheat. Thanks

I wouldn't use it on a single 219C with a good high drain battery battery, even though it doesn't have as low of resistance as a normal FET driver so you can get away with a bit more. Since the modes are fully programmable, you can turn down the highest mode to whatever you want, or disable the FET entirely (I would still keep it on, but just turn it down one mode level from the top).

[Terry_White]

Any plans for maybe a 20mm?

[RMM]

@Terry White

Any plans for maybe a 20mm?

That's completely up to DrJones. I wouldn't mind seeing a few different diameter options.

[Terry_White]

Yeah me too.

[SG3]

How well would this driver work with an XHP50/70 or would it work at all?

[tuelleric]

@EasyB

The double-tap feature is one thing I really like about the FW. How quick do the taps need to be to access this mode? Is it easy to accidentally access this mode when switching modes quickly?

Was this question answered? I normaly prefer a L-M-H setup and want to access the higher modes quickly bydouble or triple tapping from off.

How do you programm the double-tap mode? Can you disable it? I do not find any information in the description…

@RMM

I wouldn’t use it on a single 219C with a good high drain battery battery, even though it doesn’t have as low of resistance as a normal FET driver so you can get away with a bit more. Since the modes are fully programmable, you can turn down the highest mode to whatever you want, or disable the FET entirely (I would still keep it on, but just turn it down one mode level from the top).

When programming the brightness it cycles through the modes, right? So you can accidently go into direct drive, I think. What happens to the LED if the battery allows very high amperages?

Thanks for your help!

[Gunga]

It’s a medium fast double tap. Yes. You can go into by accident when changing modes fast.

When programming it ramps up from minimum so you can avoid direct drive. The problem is that I think double tap and maybe the last mode are at max. I wish Dr Jones would limit the stock max modes. I was programming with a single 219B and (silly me) a high current cell. Nothing blew up but the LED would go blue after a few seconds.

[tuelleric]

Thanks, Gunga!
So I have to reconsider, whether the H17F is right for me. Would be great, if you could disable the double-tap mode in the config menu.

[Gunga]

After programming it’s fine (no LED blue) but double tap mode can be a bit annoying. You get used to it though.

[KawiBoy1428]

I love the double tap Turbo feature, Normal people can use the light and never enter or know (Turbo) is there , it is only the Professional Flashlight experts that get annoyed when fast clicking! Or forget to get out of Turbo when shutting it off, next turn on BAM! :person_facepalming:

[EasyB]

Double tap can not be disabled, but you can set it to any brightness level you want. And yes, it is fairly easy to accidentally access it.

[mattlward]

I use the double tap to always go to moonlight mode. I try to have ML on every light that I build and it is nice not to have to go past a mode that makes so little light you cannot tell it is on, but at night I can double tap a know that it will not blind me the next time I turn it on!

I would like to echo the hope for the H17f in other sizes as well. I would love to see it in 20mm.

[Firelight2]

I LOVE the double-tap feature on this driver.

It’s what makes this my absolute favorite clicky switch driver. The shortcut to turbo works really well.