UDO, you mean you are “absolutely” sure your e-bike limits itself for max 14A amp draw (≈700W of power)? I reeally doubt it.
A 14S3P pack of NCR18650Bs, though slightly lighter, would be a baad idea, imho. 3P NCR18650Bs aren't high drain cells and, comparatively, would barely deliver slightly more current at the same output voltage than a single LiitoKala 26650-50A/B.
For a vehicle, no matter what, it is advisable to use sufficiently high drain/power cell packs. Either that, or its throttle response/slope performance will suck, not to mention battery life would also crumble.
It is also possible to build hybrid battery packs. If, for example, you were to like the idea of having a battery pack combining slightly less weight and capacity but preserve/enhance top power output, you could then assemble, for example, a 14SαP pack, for α = sum of a top notch high drain 18650 plus our 26650.
Cheers ^:)
Originally posted on Fri, 12/30/2016 - 04:10; typo fixup.
absolutely.test equipment is a triton hobby charger.
i still have 2 and will test them over the holiday weekend.
the other 4 from the order are in box mods and doing great.
Are you at all interested in modding my Utorch UT02 (Manker U21)? I would certainly pay for materials. Maybe work a trade of some kind? Maybe a new in package Lumintop TD16? Or something else.
update.
i discovered high resistance in my test rig.banana plugs to my holder were losing their tension.
charged the cells again and started another discharge.holding 4.13v @ 1a at start.
was 3.96v.
so these are likely better than we thought.
stay tuned…
These are a bit wider and a bit shorter then most other 26650’s, it fits like a glove in the L6, it doesn’t fall when inserted it just slowly lowers itself to the bottom.
Gonna get some serious amps mangled from them pretty soon…
The BMS low voltage/under discharge protection works well. I accidentally hard-shorted the BP+/B- terminals while assembling the stuff, a lil smoke crept away… Had to hook the thing up to the charger board to relive it. Quite interesting to notice my multimeter could actually measure some volts at the output terminals after the “accident”, a below 1Hz voltage signal oscillating between very high 6s and low 7s.
Interesting, I picked up some of these because of good reports earlier, but I have not tested them, waiting for some nice new light. Maybe I will test them when my test charges arrives and then put them back at storage voltage until I have a need for them. They sure seem like a pretty good bargain.
Thanks for that link! As far as I am concerned this pretty well verifies what we thought all along. :+1:
Which brings me to another realization.
If HKJ’s “Discharge Capacity numbers” are accurate, and I feel sure they are; my LiitoKala Lii-500 is much more accurate than my Opus BT C-3100 v2.2 when measuring “Discharge Capacity”. Interesting………
Edit: Forgot to say…… :person_facepalming:
My Opus reads consistently high, and from some of the Opus numbers some others have posted in the past, mine appears not to be the only one.
“Optimistic” that is a very scholarly way to say that!! I “b” impresseded. :+1:
Do you happen to be a “scholar” ???
Edit: I was doing some looking back on things I had written down, and best I remember Ian; you and I compared numbers from LiitoKala 26650’s done on both chargers. Our numbers were very comparable for both chargers as each of us has a Lii-500 & a BT C-3100. Pretty interesting results for two different continents.