dthrckt can you post a pic off the driver and pic of the reflector, can you compare the size with other reflector please like this.
Left Skyray A0 and Trustfire X9 right
It's driven ok, unless if your cells are super terrible. Other good cells would be getting like 1.4A thereabouts or maybe even lower. The higher the resistance the more current the driver would draw, coz the less voltage is supplied (or rather more voltage sagged), the driver tries to maintain overall Power. It does this till the cell no longer can provide any more current.
topped off my two best cells, 4.23V, both have about 1500 mah (1A discharge to 3.0V)
previous two were 3.8V and only have about 1100mah capacity
now I get 1.88A
it is misting/raining/foggy here so I can't get a good idea how far it is throwing but it sure does have a night visible beam in this weather!
I get 70k lux at one meter. If somebody can tell me what my warm white xeno should show at 1m we'll have an idea how accurate that is...
my xtar d06 (xml) at 2.6A is 27k
I'll post lots of pictures up when I get a new camera. In the meantime, I'll measure the reflector for you - once I've picked up some canned air. I'm out of it, and in a house w/ three dogs you can't avoid getting stuff on the reflector when you take it apart...
How big is the head diameter? Is it 58mm or 63mm?
I have a warm white Xeno E03, but a lot depends on the cells and i am getting about 1.9A with fully charged TF Flames 14500. Nevertheless i will measure for you (8 hours later), but your measurement distance for this thrower flashlight should be at least 6-7 metres.
XTAR d06 @ 27k, and this one at 70k, i can say for sure it is over reading.
OD of head is 60.5mm, the diameter of the reflective surface is 50mm
I was pretty shocked by that reading.
At almost exactly 20 feet I get 710 for D06 and 1800 for the Trustfire D1.
My WW xeno hit 84 lux at the same distance but I couldn't repeat that...it is 75 if it has warmed up at all. My multimeter shows 2.0A from trustfire gray. I have 6 of them and each gives a different reading so I can pick whatever one is closest to what you measure and try it again.
Watching the ammeter is like watching the seconds on a digital watch, except its counting down .01a
at 1 meter the xeno reads 2388 peak lux
Ok thanks...will try to verify my WW E03. 2.0A drive is ok....no need to be too accurate, but of course 1.2A is not ok. hehe...
20ft is fine esp for the E03, no worries. 1m is not. :)
Anyway it should be over-reading. A TK35 with 52mm head gives about 23k or so usually and that one is more or less gunned to the max. Your Xtar D06 is 44mm head and 2.6A.
it will work w/o adding grease...but I wouldn't do any sustained runs until I got some grease and applied it
of course, that's how I handle a little budget light that only draws 0.8A too;)
DX has lots of different kinds of grease and at cheap prices (at least as far as weight/volume goes).
everyone seems to like fujik - or at least I haven't read complaints - but I can't say I've done any real testing. I've mostly used arctic silver ceramique because it is available (at a ridiculously high price) locally. It is thick stuff compared to grease. I'll probably continue to use that under stars but just silicone grease on threads.
edit: btw, the star has plenty of something (probably thermal glue not grease) under it...actually, it looks like too much
Bro, i get 54 lux at 20 ft for WW E03. 1.89A at the tail. If i apply this correction factor to the DX light, yeah it is correct. My meter under reads by about 10%.
so, mine over reads by ~20%?! yikes
so basically you're saying the light performs as expected for amperage and reflector size?
btw, thanks
Mine was sent on December 14th, so 14 days ago. It can take up to two more weeks, I want to receive it now! xD
So, if driver's hole is 22mm, the driver for the SST-50 doesn't fit correctly, but maybe it can be adapted... we'll see then, I'm waiting for both items.
How does it compare with the Sky Ray STL-V2? which has higher lux readings?
sorry, don't have one. this is the only light i have in this style/class.
I think you'll be able to use a wider driver - the pill screws into the head but the collar that joins tail and head has space around the pill (so driver could be wider than pill if the circuit still fits in the pill's hole).
A 1" copper coupling will fit over the pill and inside the collar. It isn't a tight fit to either but it will be once I get some copper sheet or foil :)
here's a teaser for you 
imho, this light is very well designed - except the lack of a side switch...
Yep...looks like it, you need to compare with others to compare how much though.
I will buy a better one...it just keeps getting bumped down the list by lights, drivers, emitters, etc lol
Can you post a pic of the bottom of the driver. Is it a cheap driver?
driver - as you can see it is soldered to a brass collar in the pill, otherwise I'd pop it out so you could see the other side...
I took it at an angle so that you could see the little gap between the pill and collar
here it is again w/ the collar removed. the little hole at 9 o'clock must be to aid in removing the driver
and one more to show how the pill sits in the collar. I'm holding the pill slightly higher than where it actually sits or you wouldn't see the gap.
if you put a 1" copper coupling around the pill there is a gap, and there is also a gap between the coupling and the collar. I forget which gap is larger - one was 0.012 and the other 0.022. It should be very easy to use copper sheet to fill both gaps.
There's really no need to do it though. After thoroughly greasing all the threads and doing a 20 minute tailstand run on high the whole light is nearly the same temperature - very warm - (by feel...didn't bother w/ temp probe). Even the tailcap...
Finally arrived. Hmmm, very budget feeling, a lot of failure (dents) outside on the anodized layer, very dusty lens and reflector, no memory function(??wft), little off center emitter.
Measured 1.38A at the tailcap, but it depends on the multimeter and the leads, with thinner leads I got 1.6A.
Overall brightness is about 8% less than BC40.
42000cd that is not so bad, but the quality...
after a little modification on the driver, now the tailcap current jumped from 1.38A to 1.9A, with thin leads from 1.6A to 2.2A. The led current is somewhere 3.8A.
I got a solid 50000cd. I tried with higher current (2.2A with thick leads), and got above 53kcd, but the brightness sag was so strong, and I didn't want to overstress the driver and the led, so I reverted to the lower 1.9A.
Now, I am satisfied with the result.
I just put an additional 0.56ohm resistor there:
I tried it without the poor glass lens, and reached 55000cd. Something wrong with this lens.
edit:
Okay, I found a lens with almost the same diameter, which is far better than the original, and finally, the best value was 53000cd @1m (measured from 3.17m). That is enough for me.
SWEET. love you man lol
I have to find my bag of resistors, I might have one of those.
edit: although, I will probably stress the LED a little more because if it burns out I have an excuse to buy better tint 