Copper P60 Dropin - Quad Nichia

Beautiful work!

Im amaze with your copper pill .

so nice and shiny

That is nice work sir. Truly hand made. I would be proud of that rig! How long did it take to complete once you got going?

Thanks for the comments guys :beer:
Hello mate, good to see you again.
I think maybe around 3 hours altogether.
The most difficult part was precision fitting it so the optic presses against the host glass and the aluminium ring presses against the rim inside the head so there is solid contact all round when tightened.

Nice Work!!! Thanks for sharing. You guys that do that are just tough!!! :+1:
TL

Well done, very nice finished light. :wink:

Thanks, nice compliment from you guys :slight_smile:

Awesome sharing !! Thank you.

Looks like a new project for me

Now where can I find copper

CRX, your craftmanship skils never stop to amaze me! :+1:

cheapest copper I could find was in home DIY shops, like Home Depot, Lowes, ā€¦ paid about 1.5 $ for a short copper pipe that should be good enough for 2 P60 dropins (if youā€™d follow this build or something similar).

copper rods on the other handā€¦ are not necessarily available in the regular home repair shops. The home depot I went to didnā€™t have them.

Amazing work, love it :+1:

Thanks for the comments. :slight_smile:
The host materials i got pretty much for free.
The outer tube is a scrap piece of plumbers pipe, the aluminium was a scrap cutting too. The copper slug sample cost a pound from -bay and the 17mm brass driver adapter ring can be found for pennies.

That is just nice clean work. PERIOD!!!ā€¦ well, not quite PERIOD!!! It is BEAUTIFUL TOO. okā€¦ now P E R I O D ! :heart_eyes:
TL.

Helloo-o-o-o China ā€” steal this guyā€™s idea, clone this thing and sell it cheap ā€¦.

That would save me a lot of work :wink:

amazingā€¦great job!

Questionā€¦sorry Iā€™m a noob in modding. I wanted to build my own P60 quad since I canā€™t get a pre-built one in the specs I want. (and i canā€™t find any tutorial).

Howā€™s the mcpcb secured to the pill? solder? Thermal adhesive?

thanks

Thanks :+1: .

I did not use solder to fix the MCPCB with this build as the copper slug and driver mount are soldered into the pipe and it would most likely have ended in disaster and tears if they moved any amount as the whole unit would need to be up to solder melting temperature - better to use the soldering technique on solid copper or brass pills.
It is the best although most difficult method.

I left the MCPCB loose for ease of future changes, it has arctic silver 5 thermal paste under it, this requires care when screwing the flashlight head down tight as you can twist & dislodge the wires from the board or driver. You would probably be better fixing it down with a small amount of thermal adhesive like arctic silver alumina two part epoxy or better.

Hope this helps and remember to show us your build when you get it done :wink:

what are the ā€œcontrol specsā€ of a p60 module, dimensions wide?

i mean, DIY copper p60s, tend to look straighter and longer than ā€œstockā€. and tend to be ā€œall pillā€ as compared to stock, IE the ā€œpillā€ takes over the outside dimensions of the reflector, too.

whats the ā€œblueprintā€, the ā€œspecsā€ā€¦ or, do you just ā€œwing itā€ and make a custom fit??

This one is a custom fit for the light it is used in, i only have one p60 type light so couldnā€™t tell you if it would fit another - probably the reason why the normal ones are so loose. I didnā€™t even bother taking any measurements from the stock one to transfer over.
I suppose a slightly shorter length and the use of a spring would be a good idea for interchangeable units.