What did you use for a spacer?
Astrolux SC quad :
Spacer from kiriba-ru , Carclo 10622 optic , Nichia 219C 4000K CRI 90+ D240 leds and old dsche copper quad mcpcb .
Stock driver , with bypassed spring . Also added the second LED & Resistor in the tailcap PCB . Leds on mcpcb is soldered on the spacer and spacer inside the head too .
Unfortunately i don’t took pictures during the mod , i had my phone for repair .
But here are the results :
Pulls 12 Amps from the little Efest 14500 V2 650mAh :heart_eyes:
Edit 4/24 : Pictures fixed
I roughly cut two discs from a 3mm copper plate that I have. I then solder them together and drill a hole in the middle.
You modified the Blf-A6, a FET+1 firmware?
I’m running a S2+ with 3x 219C and FET+1 (modified Blf-X6-driver) as EDC, of course it gets hot fast in turbo, but with a “not-too-high”-drain cell like Sanyo 18650GA its really usable.
I noticed this behaviour with a 105D.
Yupp, but nothing major. To add the OTC I changed the OTC pin to be the one next to the GND pin, so that I can solder it across those two pins. Also brought Battcheck_VpT to this firmware a while ago.
I built this zener modded FET driver, using an Attiny13 from an old 105C type of driver (one without stars, mode group with/without blinkies sekected after a flash in low mode).
Long story short: I first tried to zener-mod (swapped the diode for a 220 Ohm resistor and soldered the zener parallel to C1) the BLF-A6 driver, zener-mod worked but the user interface was messed-up bigtime, then teied to zenermod a AK-47C but it did not work, probably because the circuitry is a bit different from the 105C. So for the third attempt I built the driver from the picture because I built that one before and it works, except that the low voltage warning kicks in at 3.5V.
I used this driver together with a (my only) Nichia 144A SM453 in a S8 type host, modded the tail section a bit to accomodate 2x 18350 batteries. The mod was succesful, got a bright working light!
I hoped for 3A but the voltage of the 144A is so low that on those two little cells it drawed 5.8A, way too much for this led on the non-DTP board, the output was way over max.
Before something went wrong I made these shots, first a lens projection of the die, then a beamshot from 2.5 meter to the wall. As can be seen the die looks fairly ok (much less ‘spiegelei’ like some of the earlier samples), but the beam from the small OP reflector still has an unpleasant yellow hotspot. The perhaps bright side is: a distinct spot without donut hole.
I had to take the pictures on high setting to avoid pwm effects, and the 30 seconds on near 6A appeared too much, the led got too hot and died 
Exit 144A led, I was too careless. I will save this host+driver for a XHP50.2
There they are, not easy editing on a phone underway in the train 
Thank you!
Modified my Convoy S3 tail switch today
Very cute, but the pram is not finished without a decent lightbar:
One of the first lights i bought, a Jetbeam Element E3S with potted FET+1 driver, 5D XM-L2 on T-Pad and I filed in a couple of thumb cutouts.
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Also hacked a couple of Xiaomi speakers so both can work at the same time connected via a USB cable.
Only one needs to be powered up in operation so when the battery gets low just switch over to the other one :sunglasses:
The E3S is such a good looking light.
rebuilt a dead emitter S41S head today. Used 2X XP-L HI V2 3A and 2X XP-L HI V2 5A2
Guess I shoulda put the different tints opposing. Was concentrating on getting the XP-L HI polarity right more.
I used the last version original MCPCB and made sure to reverse the polarity of the emitters and wires. Used solder paste on the board to the head and screwed it down (no washers) before it cooled. Used 18 AWG and wanted to bridge the negative wire over to the back tab of the FET and the FET moved almost instantly. Bad solder on the other 4 legs, Got centered again and made sure the legs were now soldered down, Neg wire bridge was successful. That made me take a better look at the New BG A6 driver and found weak legs on the MCU.
Tried the original X6 driver but it kept kicking out of the higher modes with a double flicker and went to lower mode. The beefed up A6 is doing great so far.
Really like the tint in all modes. Blends well, not the 50/50 shades I thought might hapen.
I opened my brand new B158B, and make it a DD single mode (no driver).
It sure kicks some kCds with a 30Q !
Those new pills are really cool to mod, you have a contact plate and then a standard 105C driver (8*7135) floating inside 
Just finished a Convoy S3 triple
Spacer from kiriba, XP-G2 R5 4C from Simon @ $1.50ea on a Noctigon. NUV Fet+1 Bistro from MtnE.
Soldered this Noctigon myself, yay… Soldered the MCPCB to spacer and spacer thermal epoxied into host. Bypassed SW spring.
Lapped the spacer into head to assure as much contact as possible.
One emitter slightly off color in ML.
Although not an in depth mod really , I thought I would post this since the Thorfire VG10 seems to be a hot item in another thread right now on sale through Amazon.
Also this IS the older version of the VG10 with the press fit driver in it and NOT the one with the screw out retaining ring like the newer model has.
All that was done to this light was a simple MCPCB swap using a Noctigon board with XM-L2 U4 1A dedomed emitter on it and a spring bypass. It did make a big difference in the throw and the tint of the light in the end though.
Original at 95 yards from gate
Mod at 95 yards from gate
Seems that the emitters are not ok. Two are blueisch and perhaps a little dedomed, similar to the Astrolux S41S with the first glued head (e.g. ENEDED - #376 by Bruno28). The third is too dim.