OD of head is 60.5mm, the diameter of the reflective surface is 50mm
I was pretty shocked by that reading.
At almost exactly 20 feet I get 710 for D06 and 1800 for the Trustfire D1.
My WW xeno hit 84 lux at the same distance but I couldn't repeat that...it is 75 if it has warmed up at all. My multimeter shows 2.0A from trustfire gray. I have 6 of them and each gives a different reading so I can pick whatever one is closest to what you measure and try it again.
Watching the ammeter is like watching the seconds on a digital watch, except its counting down .01a
Ok thanks...will try to verify my WW E03. 2.0A drive is ok....no need to be too accurate, but of course 1.2A is not ok. hehe...
20ft is fine esp for the E03, no worries. 1m is not. :)
Anyway it should be over-reading. A TK35 with 52mm head gives about 23k or so usually and that one is more or less gunned to the max. Your Xtar D06 is 44mm head and 2.6A.
it will work w/o adding grease...but I wouldn't do any sustained runs until I got some grease and applied it
of course, that's how I handle a little budget light that only draws 0.8A too;)
DX has lots of different kinds of grease and at cheap prices (at least as far as weight/volume goes).
everyone seems to like fujik - or at least I haven't read complaints - but I can't say I've done any real testing. I've mostly used arctic silver ceramique because it is available (at a ridiculously high price) locally. It is thick stuff compared to grease. I'll probably continue to use that under stars but just silicone grease on threads.
edit: btw, the star has plenty of something (probably thermal glue not grease) under it...actually, it looks like too much
Bro, i get 54 lux at 20 ft for WW E03. 1.89A at the tail. If i apply this correction factor to the DX light, yeah it is correct. My meter under reads by about 10%.
Mine was sent on December 14th, so 14 days ago. It can take up to two more weeks, I want to receive it now! xD
So, if driver's hole is 22mm, the driver for the SST-50 doesn't fit correctly, but maybe it can be adapted... we'll see then, I'm waiting for both items.
How does it compare with the Sky Ray STL-V2? which has higher lux readings?
sorry, don't have one. this is the only light i have in this style/class.
I think you'll be able to use a wider driver - the pill screws into the head but the collar that joins tail and head has space around the pill (so driver could be wider than pill if the circuit still fits in the pill's hole).
A 1" copper coupling will fit over the pill and inside the collar. It isn't a tight fit to either but it will be once I get some copper sheet or foil :)
driver - as you can see it is soldered to a brass collar in the pill, otherwise I'd pop it out so you could see the other side...
I took it at an angle so that you could see the little gap between the pill and collar
here it is again w/ the collar removed. the little hole at 9 o'clock must be to aid in removing the driver
and one more to show how the pill sits in the collar. I'm holding the pill slightly higher than where it actually sits or you wouldn't see the gap.
if you put a 1" copper coupling around the pill there is a gap, and there is also a gap between the coupling and the collar. I forget which gap is larger - one was 0.012 and the other 0.022. It should be very easy to use copper sheet to fill both gaps.
There's really no need to do it though. After thoroughly greasing all the threads and doing a 20 minute tailstand run on high the whole light is nearly the same temperature - very warm - (by feel...didn't bother w/ temp probe). Even the tailcap...
Finally arrived. Hmmm, very budget feeling, a lot of failure (dents) outside on the anodized layer, very dusty lens and reflector, no memory function(??wft), little off center emitter.
Measured 1.38A at the tailcap, but it depends on the multimeter and the leads, with thinner leads I got 1.6A.
after a little modification on the driver, now the tailcap current jumped from 1.38A to 1.9A, with thin leads from 1.6A to 2.2A. The led current is somewhere 3.8A.
I got a solid 50000cd. I tried with higher current (2.2A with thick leads), and got above 53kcd, but the brightness sag was so strong, and I didn't want to overstress the driver and the led, so I reverted to the lower 1.9A.
I tried it without the poor glass lens, and reached 55000cd. Something wrong with this lens.
edit:
Okay, I found a lens with almost the same diameter, which is far better than the original, and finally, the best value was 53000cd @1m (measured from 3.17m). That is enough for me.
As I see, the most important part of the circuit the power mosfet, which drives the led. This is a "40n03" mosfet, and its rated current is 4A continuous and 16A pulsed. The other power component is a 4.7uH coil,
and conclude from its size, its rated current above 5A. So if you don't want too much from the driver, it can be modify.
