Welcome,
Wanted to point out a few observations on this one before it gets glued together.
The S2+ is assembled from the rear, total size is not as critical as on the S3. S3 only has so much room and no way to compensate.
I honestly have not tried to assemble it with the single emitter stack. Guess I should try before it all gets glued to triple.
OK, Single stack works but there is a small gap under bezel using the Noctigon and XM-L spacer. I also have the O-ring on top of glass. Thinner MCPCB or no O-ring will seat the bezel flush. Guess if your skill level is higher you could also use a flat pad spacer or omit the reflector spacer all together. Space is tight in there.
@kiriba-ru. Finally built my triples using the spacers you supplied before Christmas (had to wait for KD to reship the LEDs). Spacers were a perfect fit. Thanks!
Not everyone uses a part the day they get it. Or even the same YEAR. That doesn’t excuse rude, dismissive behavior. I’ve made literally thousands of purchases and your response ranks among the top 5 worst. Thanks for confirming my statements.
Parts were fine on arrival with a quick inspection. Domes fell off into the baggie while just sitting in a drawer with other parts I was gathering. I’ve NEVER seen domes just fall off before and would not even think to check even periodically to see if it happened. Nevertheless, I stand by my statement.
Need some advice about future produced P60 drop-ins.
All quad drop-ins and shells except of mine are similar to the left part of drawing. They have full rim around optics, but can not get closer to the glass, there always will be ~3mm gap.
I have not looked at them while making mine design, so all my drop-ins (shown right) use right optics position (right under glass lens). But this version can not close optics. Quad tirs OD is 24mm, while smallest head ID is 24.1-24.5mm (depends on host).
3 ways:
save current surefire-compatible design
change it to the more regular one, with full rim and other optics disposition
save current design, provide liner ring as extra part (grey colored). There is no simple desicion to get full rim and save right optics position, I canr make tube with 0.05mm wall thickness. It will probably have 0.25-0.3mm wall thickness, 24.5-24.6 external diameter, so installing such drop-in will require boring this step in the head.
All existing drop-ins have #2 design. Lots of members own them, it is more easy way to ask them for tests.
Without light losses test, Im more worry about mcpcb and optics sitting. PCB soldering or gluing is required, optics legs gluing is required.
As I remember we have met agreement that changing 30+W drop-in “on the way” is not a good idea. You need very tight fit, so you need copper foil, so its removing and installing is not so easy.