Some of the FET+1 drivers (specifically the X6 driver, maybe others) have a Turbo > Moonlight bug caused by a spike from the FET causing the MCU to reset. Sounds like only the highest performing cells pump out enough juice to make it happen. Stacking or replacing the capacitor should fix the problem. (I’m only regurgitating what I’ve read elsewhere, like here)
I thought the S41S was using the A6 driver, not the X6. But who knows, maybe it sometimes can display similar behavior.
All of the drivers before the Q8 and Texas Avenger have the voltage spike issue, it was an issue all along, we just didn’t notice it with the tiny13 because it had a lot more tolerance for it.
After DEL figured it out on the Q8 driver the ones since then have the new components that fix this issue.
The MTN FET+1 is a middle ground, it still has the spiking issues but it is bled off with a zener.
Thanks, TA. Are you using a higher value C1? Or something more technical?
(feel free to take this to another thread or PM if you feel we’re derailing)
Nah, C1 is still 10uF. You can see the TA driver with the link in my sig but basically the small 4.7ohm resistor before the diode/C1 is the most important thing to eliminate the spike. Then adding C2 smooths out the last little bit.
Adding R4 and R3 to the FET reduces the feedback and helps reduce the spike before it starts as well.
That’s interesting about the driver mods to fix the turbo>moonlight bug. My S41 exhibits this behavior as well (2nd production run, presumably not Manker) but I usually don’t leave the light in turbo the full time and notice the bug when I go to backstep to level 6 manually.
I do have a question that I haven’t seen mentioned yet (please forgive me if I missed it, I haven’t yet read the first 30% of the thread!).
On the S41SC, I saw that the colors are due to a heat treatment. What effect does the heat treatment have on hardness of the corrosion-resistant steel? Did they let the colors run and then quench? If so would it be safe to assume the hardness is across the board depending on location on the light? Or is something else going on here?
How would this hardness compare to the hardness of the (un-colored) S41S?
Any idea what alloy they used?
Thanks in advance!
Alright I might finally get one of these now it seems all the issues have been ironed out.
Is there still a valid code or are we waiting on Martin for that?
Edit: does anyone have more than 1 of these in different tints? Very interested to know more about what people out there like XPG v Nichia
Ordered the plain SS w/nichias + 18650 tube.
Assuming Samsung 30Q or similar is the best battery for this? Got 2 when I got my BLF Edition A6.
Now the wait…shows shipped the same day. Hopefully all the bugs are now worked out. My 1st multi-emitter!
I don’t think it is really heat treated… We talked about it somewhere in the first pages of this thread. It is likely some sort of ‘rainbow finish’ similar to anodizing. They call it ‘colored’. There’s a name for it that i don’t remember right away. We’ve seen this finish on a number of mechanical ecig mods and parts one or two years ago. What gives it away are the too vivid colors, especially the green that is not part of heated steel color ‘spectrum’.
Thus it should behave the same as the plain SS version except there is a coating… No idea how resilient it is.
Edit: search for “rainbow PVD”
We talked about it here: ENEDED - #152 by freeme
Likely they use PVD, Physical Vapor Deposition, check Wiki for details.
…thanks for the ‘typospotting’! :person_facepalming:
Corrected.
Can anyone confirm that the BLF A6/Astrolux S1 18650 Body Tube fits on this Astrolux S41S Stainless Steel New Version A6 Head? mattjk post #607 indicates it does. Thanks!
Just tried my Astrolux S1 & BLF A6 into the newest version S41S.
Heads, tubes and tails all fit each other, As do all the S41 parts into all the above.
A quick and cheap weight reduction is the S41 aluminum tube. Don’t like the black, strip the anno.
My A6, S41 and S41S Colored (multiple copies of each, including both old and new S41S Colored head) legos fine in any combination.
I have however seen comments that copies that don’t lego exists.
Sorry can I just ask, if I get this with the 18650 tube, will I be able to get the best from it using a protected 18650? Or will I have to use an unprotected battery? If I use a protected battery, what will the results be?
For what i understand, when in turbo mode, the leds are drawing current from the battery without restriction and that generally induce a high current and the corresponding higher output. With a protected cell there are chances the protection will trip on turbo and the light will shut down until the battery protection resets itself. For best performance you’d want an unprotected high drain cell - 30Q for instance. But that only affects turbo mode.
How many lumens would the mode lower from the Turbo be?
A protected battery will almost assuredly trip the protection circuit everytime you turn it on.
I was afraid of that, fair enough, thank you.
My $25.70 S41S came in today and like the others it is the latest model with updated head and no glue.
It is a great little light, very nice looking and heavy. Only real complaint would be the overly aggressive grip. I am thinking about using some sandpaper to take the edge off, anyone tried that?
Makes a bit over 3000 lumens with a 30Q 18650 and the XP-G3. I plan to swap it out for 219C 90+ CRI LED’s.
VERY happy for the price, glad I grabbed it while I could.