Not the “grey 100 boxes” .
The small R100 resistors . You need to lower the resistance not increase it . Removing one resistor will increase resistance ( two 100mΩ resistors in parallel , total resistance 50mΩ )
yeah, I see them, I have some spare r100, laying around, from a scrapped skyray ok? But explain how can 2x r100 be 50? One would think 200? Please explain why it works like this?
Got the driver open, now it’s showtime, lets solder!
A simple search on google will help .
got 6 r100’s, or could I start by adding one only per led?
Ok, soldered on the r100 resistors, works great, not sure if it’s any brighter though have to test outside!
You added 1 resistor in each set of R100s ?
added 2 per set
definately brighter, even lowest mode is pretty bright! Not sure if it’s enough for me yet though!
You could have soldered the R100 resistor in between the other two so they are all bridged.
The 2 R100 are already bridged , in other words connected in parallel .
true, there are now 2 extra per emitter. And let me tell you this thing has got some power now. Even in the lower modes it’s super bright. Just overall ridiculously bright. I dedomed it before, and it got more throw, spring bypass on both ends, and now the reistor mod. The dedome made it lose output, but the resistor mod made it even brighter again. So now it has throw and super flood. Just a beast! But it’s still not enough for me.
Gets hot on turbo after 10-30 seconds now though. Can’t hold it in the hand for more than a minute lol.
Yeah, but putting one in between those 2, would have been easier. It was a real pain to solder, a real nightmare to solder actually. But my nice soldering station made it a bit easier though.(Tenma digital soldering station) Recommend it! Ok so what’s next? a turbo? Nos? haha just kidding, that direct drive would still be nice though.
I would be interested to know how bright it is. Can you take a picture when ever you get the time?
Sure I think the dedoming might, have some impact on the output. It still is crazy bright. Imagine if you had 7x xhp70? It could seriously benefit from better cooling though. Stock there is just a copper plate for heatsink+ the head obviously, but I think Haikelite could have done better on the cooling, especially for such an expensive light afterall. Slightly dissapointed to be honest. But it still is cheaper than olights and acebeams etc. Maybe add a fan of some sort, any ideas for additional cooling?
Heats up in half the time on turbo now, so must habe done something, since it runs hotter lol. Set some paper and plastic on fire lol.
I think the cooling is in the better side compared to the Niwalker MM25MB the MT03 stays much cooler and is brighter. Its always a hard game to play output vs use. You could easily make the light heavier but not every one would like it and use it. So a company has to come in between i guess. To lite you will lose output to quick. To heavy people wont buy the light.
You could make a Copper base plate to help with heat but you would need to make it fit. We should have gotten you to do a before and after amperage reading also. I always forget to do that my self.
Just be careful that the driver doesn’t over heat. If it goes it gives you the excuse to direct drive the light lol
Yeah have to be careful with that heat! Got some 2 or 3mm copper plate, I could use. I’m gonna put a small voltage display aswell as maybe a temp monitoring display on it, they are quite small. Not so sure about attacking it with a dremel to fit that dsiplay though?
Yea it depends on where you want to fit it? You can get the flexible LCDs if you dont want to cut a hole for the LCD.
got some 0,28” small display for voltage, should be fairly straight forward, you can get those super cheap, and you can actually calibrate them. would be nice to be able to monitor it all closely.