Yeah, Still got the cw mt-03.That one has the res mods. So I will take so pics of it tonight outside?
Yea mate if you can.
It must be massive out put.
If your going to scrap the other driver practice on it. see what you can get out of the driver?
Yeah might try dd on that one!
Yea might as well if its broken. see what you can get out of it driver before it melts lol. Even bridge the resistors with solder and see how that goes.
Great to hear about your successful resister mod. Sorry to hear about the other light getting damage. Hopefully, you can just replace the broken FET.
Chances are you have maxed out the driver with the 2 extra R100's per channel. Once the lower modes start getting brighter, it's a sign that the inductors may be saturated and even PWM cann't tame down output. You really need to measure current at each Mode before and after every sense-resister change. That way you can tell when you have gone as far as you can go and still have reasonable lower modes. Best why to measure current on a buck driver is at the emitter. So it's best to have driver out of the light so that you can tap into one of the LED leads to measure current.
You sure are not afraid to get in there and change things. Best wishes on your upcoming mods. :)
EDIT: fixed a couple typos.
It no longer powers on now. This really sucks! I tested the leds and they still work, which leads me to belive the driver is fried, I’m really pissed now.
I planned on running individual drivers to each led anyways, but now the stock driver won’t work!
When you start experimenting you must always have that in mind 
check out TAs drivers
Narsil or Bistro in a light like this seems really sweet!
It was a faulty switch, had a spare one and it now works again.
Seems like the electronic switch can’t handle the current? And the modes work a bit funny sometimes, but otherwise it seems fine.
For e-switch you have to go with Narsil / Tk’s ramping or some other firmware .
Modded one Utorch UT02 with a fet driver and xp-l hi v3 (driver : TA’s boards with LDO support and Narsil) .
Here are my comments : [Ended]Groupbuy : Utorch UT02 (single cell XHP-35 HI / 26650 thrower) - #503 by giorgoskok
I will be installing one to my mt03 soon …
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w3i3axfff0mpp4a/IMG_20170114_225831.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/jo6grssucznmc7s/IMG_20170114_225837.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/06zn6gwxbzn14jb/IMG_20170114_225842.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/iz99znf1sfcj8uo/IMG_20170114_225846.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsdu8j6x9jzbqr5/IMG_20170114_225851.jpg?dl=0
Some pics at night with the mt-03, quite bad pics, but still!
Mode 1-5!
Yea you will always break parts when you are pushing the limits. Its part of the game and learning. Just buy heaps of spares and leave them for when you need them. The switch you can always bridge if you need to.
Mad snow! Last night was like 25 degrees Celsius here. I think using this light in the snow would be bad it will reflect and blind you lol
It’s not as much snow as it seems, maybe 10cm. And yeah if you have it on turbo you definately get blinded lol. Mode 3 is good enough for daily use! Yeah! Need to have some spares around!
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S024013.4-18V-3-Mode-Drive-Circuit-Board-for-3-x-Cree-XHP70Hey I found a triple xhp70 driver on kaidomain. It's rated at 4,5-5A, for 3 leds in series. This would be what I need, but how do you hook a switch up to a driver that don't come with one?
Hi there.
Does anyone modded a 4S driver?
Is the procedure the same as described here for the 2S driver?
I think my MT03 can handle more current than the original driver can supply.
Apreciate any help.
Resistor mod success!
My MT03 4S driver came from Haikelite with R100 + R150 per channel. Not 2 R100 as described by others here. That’s why it was underdrived. After the turbo step down it was warm but not hot to the touch. With a DC power supply attached to test the light originally it was drawing 3.6 amps at 16 volts in turbo mode.
I moded it to 3 R100 resistors per channel. Now the turbo current is higher than the max 5 amps my power supply can output. The ceiling lumens almost double and the body temperature rises to 50C in half minute of turbo.
Another benefit is that the second and third modes are more spaced, different from the original driver behavior, as those modes where almost equal.
Now this thing became a beast!
We were talking for 2s2p version , it’s normal that it has different resistors , it doesn’t mean your mt03 was underdriven.
Anyway the resistor mod gave you a good bump as you see 
Has anyone else seen quality issues on their MT03? I have a newer version (SS switch plate), and the 2 screw heads on the battery tube are completely stripped out, and the 3 screws holding down the MCPCB just turn and turn - the threads on the shelf are stripped or cut too big.
Also the MCPCB is 1.5 mm thick - fairly thin, thinner than typical Noctigons (1.6 mm). Makes no sense for such a large triple MCPCB - it should be a good 2 mm.
The LED wires are pinched tight going thru the holes in the shelf. I'll be dremeling/drilling those out to make more room. The wires got damaged pulling them out - bad design in this case.
For the double spring on the battery tube, the inner spring is loose - just flopping around, but we now know Haikelites all have poor soldering on their springs.
Also, the grease under the MCPCB is simply a smear roughly in the center - doesn't even cover all the LED's directly underneath - I'd say 50% at best for the most critical area under the LED's.
I'm planning on using the latest Harley Quinn BLF SRK v3.4 driver - I have a 2S2P so should be perfect for this. Gotta work on adapting the Batt+/Batt- contact though. Planning on building up the grnd ring with solder. Also will upgrade to XHP70.2's. Should hit over 20K lumens.
bugger im so tempting to get the newer version but i think i should stay away for now due to poor quality control.
I definitely dont have the money to throw around and take risk. Thanks for the feedback Tom.
Well it looks like I can fix all these issues, but PITA they are there. Dunno if it's a 1 off occurrence though. Certainly the battery tube screws I've seen in review pics were all good, and my MT07 didn't have these problems. I've got two more Haikelite's on the way, SC01 and HT35, and plan on ordering the MT07S, so I'll be sure to check them out carefully.