Thanks! I modded my hobby-corner of the livingroom into this mess today:
I made a few things on my new Convoy M1.
It arrived with the new design driver but with green color and old firmware.
I added two extra 7135 to the driver:
I wanted to flash the new biscotti fw but for this new driver I needed to cut the trace from MCU pin5 to GND (over the top right leg of Atmel) and then the biscotti programmed succesfully:
And changed the switch boot to blue from Simon’s shop and added PD68’s lighted tailcap ring board in it with white LEDs and 47K resistors for each two leds:
It was a bit tricky to place the bleeder resistor on driver but next to the battery spring I solved it with a little wire piece and an 1K resistor. The tailcap light draws 0,088mA 
And reflowed the LED to a sinkpad because cooler is better!
EDIT: some more pics:
Nice mod, Zozz! Good idea for the tail lighting with blue cap and white leds, I may copy that 
Thank you! I added some more pics
I put 3 219c R90 SW403 emitters with a MtnElectronics FET+1 Bistro driver in a Sinner Copper Tri-EDC. Finished it off with a lighted orange tailcap:
Nice :+1:
0.000088 amps??
How do you even measure something that small? What multimeter or clamp meter do you use?
I put a bleeder on a 105D driver which is a similar layout to the new Convoy drivers (7135’s positioned at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock). I used the same method - a jumper wire. Good to know it’s not a crazy idea (or at least I’m not alone in doing so)
From the specs it doesn’t seem like it can measure that low accurately…?
Are you sure it isn’t 0.088 A instead of 0.088mA?
It’s in the specs:
ADC:
Range: 0 mA-10A
Resolution: 0.1 µA-10 mA
and 0.088mA is 88µA
The range is from 0mA not 0uA, and the accuracy is much larger than 88uA…
± 0.05% + 2 *
So +–2mA completely overshadows 88uA…
I don’t have here the light but the last two digits were 8 when I measured yesterday. That is percentage not milliamps on accuracy. If 2mA± the accuracy then why it has 3 zeros after point in mA reading?
Got a Brown (not really) S6 clone from KD. KSH-1224
Made it into a triple with XP-L HI V2 3A on Noctigon from MtnE. Soldered to an S2 copper spacer from Kiriba-RU. FET+1 New ver driver with Bistro from MtnE and a frosted spot Carclo. I like this one (Carclo).
And another…
S2+ triple
Finally used one of my Hoop retaining ring S2+ copper spacers. Nichia 219C 5000K 80+ on Noctigon soldered direct to pill. BG, BLF A6 driver with 22AWG, bridged neg to FET and bypassed springs. Carclo Narrow Spot under glass. Touched up a couple joints on the A6 driver after close look and it works really well. Gets a tad too hot before the step down but it doesn’t get stupid when its hot. Can’t complain for $3.63 driver.
Let me know if the above link works. I been working on an SRK/LinusHoffman idea. Most of the work is done but I need to do a few tidbits to tidy it up and improve Lux.
Nice triples!
I hace an X6 triple but now I ordered nichia triple from KD to build an S2+ or M1 triple high CRI light.
Thank you.
Pay close attention to the optic height on the KD set. Saw some good pics (djozz I think) of those and the legs, height and getting the perfect fit may need some work. I have refrained from buying them till I see some in builds.
Here in US MtnE can’t keep the high CRI Nichia in stock. I have been waiting patiently with a couple hosts aside. I have tried a few reflows on triples and a Tpad quad… Richard will do all my future reflows. Too hard to get the jumpers and emitters all right at the same time while trying to control heat on a hot plate. Mine get messy, Richards are always perfect. Well worth the expense and wait.
If not good I have some noctigon triple board and carlco lens. I can replace the leds if something wrong. Thanks for the attention.