I made a few things on my new Convoy M1.
It arrived with the new design driver but with green color and old firmware.
I added two extra 7135 to the driver:
I wanted to flash the new biscotti fw but for this new driver I needed to cut the trace from MCU pin5 to GND (over the top right leg of Atmel) and then the biscotti programmed succesfully:
And changed the switch boot to blue from Simonâs shop and added PD68âs lighted tailcap ring board in it with white LEDs and 47K resistors for each two leds:
It was a bit tricky to place the bleeder resistor on driver but next to the battery spring I solved it with a little wire piece and an 1K resistor. The tailcap light draws 0,088mA 
And reflowed the LED to a sinkpad because cooler is better!
EDIT: some more pics:
Nice mod, Zozz! Good idea for the tail lighting with blue cap and white leds, I may copy that 
Thank you! I added some more pics
I put 3 219c R90 SW403 emitters with a MtnElectronics FET+1 Bistro driver in a Sinner Copper Tri-EDC. Finished it off with a lighted orange tailcap:
Nice :+1:
0.000088 amps??
How do you even measure something that small? What multimeter or clamp meter do you use?
I put a bleeder on a 105D driver which is a similar layout to the new Convoy drivers (7135âs positioned at 3, 6, 9, and 12 oâclock). I used the same method - a jumper wire. Good to know itâs not a crazy idea (or at least Iâm not alone in doing so)
From the specs it doesnât seem like it can measure that low accuratelyâŠ?
Are you sure it isnât 0.088 A instead of 0.088mA?
Itâs in the specs:
ADC:
Range: 0 mA-10A
Resolution: 0.1 ”A-10 mA
and 0.088mA is 88”A
The range is from 0mA not 0uA, and the accuracy is much larger than 88uAâŠ
± 0.05% + 2 *
So +â2mA completely overshadows 88uAâŠ
I donât have here the light but the last two digits were 8 when I measured yesterday. That is percentage not milliamps on accuracy. If 2mA± the accuracy then why it has 3 zeros after point in mA reading?
Got a Brown (not really) S6 clone from KD. KSH-1224
Made it into a triple with XP-L HI V2 3A on Noctigon from MtnE. Soldered to an S2 copper spacer from Kiriba-RU. FET+1 New ver driver with Bistro from MtnE and a frosted spot Carclo. I like this one (Carclo).
And anotherâŠ
S2+ triple
Finally used one of my Hoop retaining ring S2+ copper spacers. Nichia 219C 5000K 80+ on Noctigon soldered direct to pill. BG, BLF A6 driver with 22AWG, bridged neg to FET and bypassed springs. Carclo Narrow Spot under glass. Touched up a couple joints on the A6 driver after close look and it works really well. Gets a tad too hot before the step down but it doesnât get stupid when its hot. Canât complain for $3.63 driver.
Let me know if the above link works. I been working on an SRK/LinusHoffman idea. Most of the work is done but I need to do a few tidbits to tidy it up and improve Lux.
Nice triples!
I hace an X6 triple but now I ordered nichia triple from KD to build an S2+ or M1 triple high CRI light.
Thank you.
Pay close attention to the optic height on the KD set. Saw some good pics (djozz I think) of those and the legs, height and getting the perfect fit may need some work. I have refrained from buying them till I see some in builds.
Here in US MtnE canât keep the high CRI Nichia in stock. I have been waiting patiently with a couple hosts aside. I have tried a few reflows on triples and a Tpad quad⊠Richard will do all my future reflows. Too hard to get the jumpers and emitters all right at the same time while trying to control heat on a hot plate. Mine get messy, Richards are always perfect. Well worth the expense and wait.
If not good I have some noctigon triple board and carlco lens. I can replace the leds if something wrong. Thanks for the attention.
After yet more tweaking late last night (actually very early this morning) Iâve gotten just so close to my goal of a 300kcd C8, Iâm at 294kcd peak, which Iâm fairly sure is already the most powerful C8 ever built but I just want that 300. Picture of it at 280kcd over in the STO thread.