SKILHUNT H03 H03R led headlamp release, 1200 LED lemens

Hey SKILHUNT, can I pay you for one of these metallic squares?
One of these:

ye i know what you mean,
i love mine, it’s light, bright, but dam that strap is tight, so much that it leaves an impression on my forehead when i take it off

one other thing is the battery compartment,
dam is that small

here’s my non edited review (so it may look like poop :stuck_out_tongue: )

size considerations
depth of battery holder/sleave 071.93 mm minus the spring (their are some tiny components on the pcb, probably about 1.2 mm in height at one side)
depth of battery holder/sleave to spring 066.62 mm (uncompressed)

negatives:
strap is a bit tight, and i only have a small head, although it’s still reasonably comfortable
battery compartment could have been a few millimeters bigger for larger protected batteries without compressing the spring to much

Some of the Batteries i’ve tried
samsung icr18650-22e sdi 64.88mm (non protected from a laptop battery someone left at the house) fits best
xtar 68.99 mm
skilhunt mm 69.71

the skilhunt BL-134 3400mAh sticks out by 3.65mm (spring uncompressed) although it does fit with a squeeze

final thoughts
a well made light, very bright, very light weight, wide angled beam which is great if you need to light up a large area no noticeable hot spots (neutral white version)
turbo is insanely bright
9.5/10
i might buy another

dam i wondered why i couldn’t undo mine by hand
note to self must not fiddle with new stuff if it doesn’t need fiddling with :blush:

just a quick question, is the driver board fixed in place with the thread?

I think I Need one … No… Scratch that… WANT one…

Who’s got a great discount code?

it’s a shame you didn’t post earlier, as bg had 12% off all flashlights from the 8-10th of September :frowning:
i’m sure their’l be other offers in future though

Ah, yes, the threadlocked H03….
Well, i ruined my battery tube, but i got it off…

Does SKILHUNT communicate here or just post new models?
Because it would be awesome if they sold a 18350 tube for the H03.
I have a Asrolux S1 BLF A6 shorty tube now, and it’s even cuter than the Olight Nova thingy, but it could be better.
Threads don’t match perfectly and i can’t put on the clip.
[edit] i use the 18350 tube of my Astrolux S1 now and it fits perfectly [/edit]
Maybe i can construct a shorty tube from the remains of the stock battery tube, but a real Skilhunt 18350 tube would rock!

By the way, the H03 is a great light.
It’s smaller and better looking than the H02

I have a H03F coming too, this is the best deal at the moment:
http://www.everbuying.net/product1194733.html

Yep, i must be mad… :confounded:

Thanks for the link Jerommel, I ordered one!

( giggles )

So, I want to bite the bullet on getting a few H03Rs to mod. The loctite on the head treads still bothers me. Does anybody have further comments on this? I’m not feeling comfortable having a 50/50 success rate on opening them up? Its 1 thing getting them open and spending time cleaning the thread, its another thing spoiling the thread.

If you heat the body there is no failing if you dont do anything stupid

The tube has flat sides so you dont need force to depend on grip of the knurling, resulting on crushing the tube
If you use a bench and small wise its really easy to open up

The head has flat sides as well easily get torgue applied

I used this to hold the tube with wood pieces to protect the tube in a horizontal orientation

And this to grip the head with cardbox to protect the head

I have opened about 6 or 7 of them now.

I line my vice with thin cardboard and clamp the head in tight. The switch boot has to first be removed. You may want to remove the lens as well and maybe the mcpcb as well. I have not bothered to remove those and have been fine so far.

I then soak an old leather belt in water and put it to the side with a pair of channel lock pliers.

I heat the body/head joint with a heat gun moving the heat around for about 30-45sec. The body should be too hot to hold all the way to the end.

I then hook the belt around the light near the joint and pinch it tight around the light with the pliers. The pliers only pinch the two ends together and are not used to grip the light. The belt will grip the light as you roll the round forehead of the pliers back onto the belt. This creates a strong strap wrench.

It takes a good bit of prying/rolling the pliers to get it to move. Once it starts moving, don’t stop or you will need to reheat to get it to move again. Most likely you’ll need to reheat a couple times anyway.

This works for me but these are the best tools I have on hand. I’m not sure if a good strap wrench will work well enough or not. If you have questions, I can try to take a picture of what I do and post it later.

I have not tried gripping the tube in the vice. I may give that way a try next time.

The vise on the tube with wood spacers worked great, just do not crush the tube by overtighten it
The spacers were as long as the smaller diameter of the tube so I used the full availiable lengh to hold it orientating the light horizontal

Have you managed to crush a tube to this point?

If you do the light vertical in the vise you may damage the tube if you overtighten it, the 4mm plier wood gives you a good grip when it compresses a bit and starts to make cracking noises while the knurlink of the wise punshed in it

I was far away from forces that may damage the light as the tube has flat surfaces, the soft wood starts to get compressed then you stop to tighten more

Opening my Nitecore P12 which was a beast to get open I did not crush the head witsh a aligator wrech even if I was concerned, but I did badly damage the anodisation

But the skilhunt tube is more fragile as a P12 head, so just tighten enough that it doesnt rotate while twisting the head
I did tighten the lens and round side in the small wise as I did not manage to get the switch cover off

Thanks for the feedback Lexel / LightRider. I’ll just have to bite the bullet and get them!

Hi Guys

I’ve added 2 x R200 as a resistor mod over the 2 x R082. Before the mod I’ve measured 2.7 amps, after the mod, basically the same. I made 100% sure theres contact between the resistors. Mmm, what am I doing wrong. I presume if I saw 2.7 amps before the mod, I should see around 3.6 amps after?

nothing wrong with the resistors

The inductor, resistror, diode and FET on the driver paired with the springs have quite a high resistance and the light is going practically to DD on Turbo,
unfortunately they do not use a separate low resistance FET to bypass the buck part of the driver in 1S mode,
so that its hard to get close to 3A even with a high drain cell
only way to reach full brightness is with 1 18350 like Aspire you dont loose too much capacity

For that reason I have build a TA driver with NarsilM for mine

If you wish I can build you one as well

Thanks for commenting Lexel. Interesting that LightRider claims to have bumped his current from 2.4 to 3.2 amps by adding a R100. Both R200’s in my case made no difference, started on 2.8 amps, did not move a bit. Thanks for the offer on building a driver. I have the necessary hardware to built a 21mm FET driver. I was hoping to keep some of the standard features like LED in the switch & lockout. Will just have to give that up for now. Appreciated…

I’ve done quite a few of these lights now. 3.3 was the highest I’ve ever reached. However, I can usually get 3-3.2 every time. Even with lower resistors, 3.3 is the limit.