From the specs it doesn’t seem like it can measure that low accurately…?
Are you sure it isn’t 0.088 A instead of 0.088mA?
It’s in the specs:
ADC:
Range: 0 mA-10A
Resolution: 0.1 µA-10 mA
and 0.088mA is 88µA
The range is from 0mA not 0uA, and the accuracy is much larger than 88uA…
± 0.05% + 2 *
So +–2mA completely overshadows 88uA…
I don’t have here the light but the last two digits were 8 when I measured yesterday. That is percentage not milliamps on accuracy. If 2mA± the accuracy then why it has 3 zeros after point in mA reading?
Got a Brown (not really) S6 clone from KD. KSH-1224
Made it into a triple with XP-L HI V2 3A on Noctigon from MtnE. Soldered to an S2 copper spacer from Kiriba-RU. FET+1 New ver driver with Bistro from MtnE and a frosted spot Carclo. I like this one (Carclo).
And another…
S2+ triple
Finally used one of my Hoop retaining ring S2+ copper spacers. Nichia 219C 5000K 80+ on Noctigon soldered direct to pill. BG, BLF A6 driver with 22AWG, bridged neg to FET and bypassed springs. Carclo Narrow Spot under glass. Touched up a couple joints on the A6 driver after close look and it works really well. Gets a tad too hot before the step down but it doesn’t get stupid when its hot. Can’t complain for $3.63 driver.
Let me know if the above link works. I been working on an SRK/LinusHoffman idea. Most of the work is done but I need to do a few tidbits to tidy it up and improve Lux.
Nice triples!
I hace an X6 triple but now I ordered nichia triple from KD to build an S2+ or M1 triple high CRI light.
Thank you.
Pay close attention to the optic height on the KD set. Saw some good pics (djozz I think) of those and the legs, height and getting the perfect fit may need some work. I have refrained from buying them till I see some in builds.
Here in US MtnE can’t keep the high CRI Nichia in stock. I have been waiting patiently with a couple hosts aside. I have tried a few reflows on triples and a Tpad quad… Richard will do all my future reflows. Too hard to get the jumpers and emitters all right at the same time while trying to control heat on a hot plate. Mine get messy, Richards are always perfect. Well worth the expense and wait.
If not good I have some noctigon triple board and carlco lens. I can replace the leds if something wrong. Thanks for the attention.
After yet more tweaking late last night (actually very early this morning) I’ve gotten just so close to my goal of a 300kcd C8, I’m at 294kcd peak, which I’m fairly sure is already the most powerful C8 ever built but I just want that 300. Picture of it at 280kcd over in the STO thread.
Got a ThorFire TG06 yesterday and blew the driver on a 14500 in the first 5min I had it. Driver retaining ring wasn’t tightened.
That’s OK, gave me something to do today. Pill is small and thin, filed to fit and soldered in a copper MCPCB on the underside to gain mass. Also used a BLF S1 emitter in 3D, also soldered to pill. Weighs about 8 grams now. Used a BLF A6 Fet+1 from the same donor S1 18350 I got on a deal. It was worth it in parts, and it was blue.
Replaced the spring with a brass button and strategically placed the wires for the small area to go through the pill without bends. 22AWG are as short as possibe to hold driver on top of the pill without twisting. Bypassed tail spring.
Very nice if I do say-so myself. ML - Turbo it does well on the 14500. My first compact AA size with DD.
Nice mod, vw! My Thorfire TG06 also has a BLF-A6 driver and warm white XP-L Hi, and I like it like that too 
Today just an emitter swap, in my Torpedo 007, from XP-L to Nichia219C R9050 SM353. lost 30% light (from ±600 to 380 lumen @30s on high) but gained a beautiful tint and CRI. The beam with this smaller die emitter is very good too. I do not post all my emitter swaps, but the Torpedo just gives such pretty pictures… 
… 
Thanks djozz. That sure is pretty. I am wishing for a copper prince mini. Will buy a stainless if a really good deal comes.
Nice work vwpieces…
Curious are any of those resistors on the OEM driver the sense resistor? Could it be double stacked to increase current? I am considering a similar mod to my 06… but I kind of like eneloop compatibility.
Thanks,
I do wish the TG06 was still NiMh compatible. I will ask for advisement on repairing original driver later.
I am the wrong person to advise but a guess is the R1 (R150, 0.150 ohm value). I wonder how it will effect it’s running both NiMh and LiIon.
I put a 219C sm305 in my raw brass I3S.
I LOVE the tint, it goes so well with that material !
I swapped my BLF 348 5000K 219C for a warmer one : sm353 (3500K) :
I also put a ZWB2 glass on my Jet UV, after carefully grinding it on my dremel.
No more o-ring, because of the thicker glass.
The difference is really worth it, there’s nearly no visible light anymore and the fluorescence now really pops !
ANNNND because I was in a mod rush (no toddler to interrupt !), I assembled my new SF 348 with a liteON 3535 UV LED and a grinded down ZWB2 glass.
No more o-ring also.
Since I love my 348, it became my 2nd EDC (the first being my Olight S-mini in left Pocket) along with my knife.
It’s easier to reach and with this simple stuoopid one mode you can’t be wrong.
However the clip is rather flimsy and the light tends to come out when I pull my knife.
A quick pliers mod and the clip reaches the high end level :
I did my first mods yesterday. I put a yellow led in one of my aimai ak02. It was long time ago since i soldered. One tip I can give is: don’t drink too much coffee before soldering, man my hands were shaking… But I got the job.
After some milk and letting my body burn the caffeine I opened up my skilhunt h15. It had a cool white led and I wanted to put in a warm white xml from FT but there was a tine dot of solder in one corner of the led, just big enough to hinder the TIR from sitting right. So I guess I should heat it up and flik it away with a toothpick or something? Also the star is alot tinner than the original one. Maybe I should just reflow it to the original board but I don’t have any solder-paste.
So instead of the xml I put in a nichia I ordered once from KD. The board had exactly the same dimensions. I m very happy with but haven’t tested it with long runtimes since I reused the thermal paste…
All in all i’m very happy I din’t f#*% up and both my lights are still shining.
Modded a Convoy C8 with a brand new xp-l2 V4 1B & FET driver, total 1700 lumens @ 6amps!!!
