- Ra 9050 means CRI 90 minimum (93 typical), and R9 (deep red) minimum 50 points (typical range vary between cold and warm whites)
Ra 9080 means CRI 90 minimum (93 typical), and R9 (deep red) minimum 80 points (typical range vary between cold and warm whites)
The ideal LED will of course Ra100 with all R1-R15 have 100 points. So, Ra9080 will always give better colour reproduction than Ra9050. Not all Nichias have this options since production cost will be likely much higher while most demands usually already satisfied with Ra8000-9000.
- 219C only available up to Ra9050. I ordered 3 steps binned 2700K – 5700K (sm273 – sm573) Ra9050
- 219B only available up to 9080 in certain neutral and warm CCTs. I ordered only the 4500K (sw45k) Ra9080. Please note that this 219B has different colour binning system than 219C. For 219B, Nichia uses ANSI BBL (below black body locus) rather than MacAdams colour ellipses (around the center of black body locus) thus the different colour bin format. This results in 219B sw45k has more “rosy” tint compared to 219C.
E21A and E17A available up to Ra9080 in almost all across their CCT range (2700K – 5700K). But I still need to test the sample specimens, later when I have them.
Thank you ever so much for the best clarification I have encountered for the esoteric binning system(s) Nichia uses.
Many of us were in need of your comprehensive explanation in a nutshell.
Hi Clemence; Just started following this thread last week. Learning lots of details about the newer 219 iterations. Hope to participate with a small order (4 emitters) in your next sale. Steve
I had a 90+ CRI XP-G3 in my EDC for a few months, I am ashamed to say that it was not as horrid as I thought it would be. Although I still tended to wash things out and true colors just didn’t seem to come through as well as the warmer ~4500k.
5700K may be a bit much for me but I can’t wait for high-CRI 5000K. Speaking of, Clemence, do you have full specs on this stuff? Specifically interested in flux bin for any of them.
For workshop and office spaces I always prefer 5700K if possible. Much better awareness and easier to differentiate between colours, especially light coloured objects.
Nice comparison Badhakker. I believe the 3 steps will be consistent across batches although greener. The best bin for those rosy Nichia lovers will be to selectively binning the 7 steps to get anything below the black body locus.
Congratulations badhakker, you did a really good job of exhibiting the variety of 4000K Nichia tints.
To avoid having to scroll during comparisons, I put them in an animated GIF to bump the post, and compare the sequence you listed in another format.
I have both leds in triple flashlights and indeed the tints are different the way you described. But their spectra should not be all too different, so they should be as good for your purpose. The XPG3 triple is my bicycle light and it is excellent for that.
I would think too that such a cube will handle the 3A, if the mounting of the ledboard is done right, since a simple 18650 tube light already can handle that.
I used 4x 5000K 9080 E21A @350ma for my scooter. The OEM was 6500K low CRI Stanley LED.
Most often glaring is produced by non road legal headlights with no sharp cut off. In my case I’m lucky to have a very good headlight reflector to begun with.
But indeed cooler temp irritates eyes more than lower one.
More LED with lower current each will be more efficient (cooler) than single high current LED.