These were a penny. Still looking for a dang compressor !
!
I’d advise against the “Glacier Bay” faucets at any price unless you’re selling the house. I installed a lot of them (all types) in rentals and none lasted more than 2 years before they had to be replaced with many going bad in every way possible within 6-8 months, some even sooner :rage: That customer of mine lost his butt trying to save money and now he uses only good stuff like I recommended from the start. It was a good economy brand at the start but went downhill quickly right after that- where have we seen that happen before? 
Phil
Here are some higher quality faucets for you!
They are also pretty cheap, only cost $17k-20k each.
The best deal on faucets is Delta. They will replace any worn part(s) for free on request forever 
It just doesn’t get any better than that!
Phil
The Porter cable nail gun combo is back up to $199.
negative, thats the new one. The one thats on clearance has a 16g finish nailer the new one has a 18g nailer. so be on the lookout for a 16g mixed in with the 18g’s
That’s right, there is a newer replacement model on the floors. Hard to tell the 2 apart, that’s good for us!
The nail gun in the new model only goes takes up to 2” nails at 18 gauge.
Gun model FN200SB
The old model, now on clearance at $50.02, takes nails up to 2 1/2 inch at 16 gauge.
Gun model FN250SB
By the way, that compressor-nailgun combo really is a heck of a deal. It looks to me that the nail gun sold separately is $159.00
Gun model FN250C
You are soooooo right.
I have some rental properties and I have always used the Delta “joystick” faucets. They are well made, easy to repair and easy to clean.
I used to be able to buy them new, but as far as I know they are no longer available, besides I am still able to get used ones for free from the ReStore. Contractors and home owners donate the older oval drop in sinks with them when the “upgrade”
Nobody buys them, so at the end they give them away. I remove the faucets and throw away the sinks.
I was in Rhode Island again over the weekend. I got a chance to stop in 4 different HD’s. I found one more of the power packs at $2.40, and another box of Gorilla
Nuts. Only reason they were on the shelf is that they were not were they were supposed to be. The sticker says $9.06, but something else is in their place, the one box of Gorilla Nuts were above. Can you spot them?
I found some other stuff for a penny, but my best find was the TP-Link Router for $13.02
Sorry about the false alarm earlier when I posted this.
It seems that was the ONLY store around here that had them on clearance. All other stores are still $59.95
However, I found 1 store in RI that had them reduced further to $13.02
Earlier I had purchased 2 at $25.04. I used 1 in a rental and the other I sold to a friend.
Well I took router up to customer service, got refunded for the 2 I had already bought (total $50.08), then bought all 3 back for $39.12.
(I am up $11 and get the 3rd router for free, I told the friend of our good fortune)
Also previously I had purchased 2 Wink Hubs. Regularly the were $69.97. I got one at $39.97, then another at $37.00. Since then all stores I have been in were at one of those 2 prices.
However, in that same store in RI I saw this.
NOT $39.97 nor $37.00, but $53.06. From the date I thought it might have a chance to be at the “3” price. So I took it up and it scanned for $18.03
So I brought that one up to customer service, got refunded $76.97, then bought back all 3 for 54.09
I am up $22 dollars and I get the 3rd hub for free.
Now some fails.
I could find the 2 in 1 First Alert alarms that ChadB scored for a penny everywhere, but they scan for $37.97. Has the same UPC code too.
Recently both black and white power 6 outlet power strips have been clearanced. All the stores had them for $3.03, then they were gone, replaced by another similar model.
Here is a display of “Belkin” power strips, but the actual power strips are Defiant. I thought I had found a whole display of penny power strips, but no. They scanned for $13.97
Here is another mistake by Home Depot. I found this mistake in 2 of the 4 stores.
Right now, the Power Shot electric stapler is on clearance for $7.53
Here is a display that has a yellow price sticker underneath an Arrow electric stapler at $7.53. To the left are the Power Shots marked at $29.97
I took one of each up to scan, and the Power Shot scans at $7.53 just like all other stores and the Arrow scans at $29.97
It’s not just a matter of the label being in the wrong place. The label actually is printed for the Arrow.
Too bad I don’t live nearby, those Power Shots could very well survive to a penny.
Every store I was in had the NetGear routers for $12.03.
And I didn’t realize until very recently that most of the Lithium Ion tool packs can be used as USB power packs with an adapter. I recently got the one from Ridgid, is now $16, and here is one for Makita, also $16
2 USB ports are under that black rubber flap.
Why use one of these?
Because why would you want to pay for the cells if you already have a drill pack. Also, super fast charging with the charger AND incredible capacity.
A 4.0AH pack would be rated at 20,000 mAh
??
4Ah = 4000 mAh
You are right, 4Ah = 4000mAh
Most power banks have 1 or more cells in parallel and their voltage has to be boosted to the 5V output that is required. If there were 5 cells in a power bank, each having a capacity of 2000mAh, they would rate the power bank at the sum total of the capacities of all the cells, 10,000 mAh.
Power banks aren’t usually made this way, but if they used those same 5 cells in series and bucked the voltage down to 5V, they would still call it a 10,000 mAh power bank.
18V Ridgid, Milwaukee, Ryobi, etc power tool batteries use 5 cells in series, 21V fully charged. So a 4Ah, 18V battery would have 10 2000mAh cells in a 5S2P configuration.
Hence the 20,000 mAh rating.
DCH those fire alarms went on clearance a while back, must be a new one out. I’m not sure why the UPC is the same? But they have the same ones on the shelf… These were a little dusty and the plastic cracked and I recalled seeing them a while back, so I scanned them and they were a penny.
Those routers are 3 price here as well, I don’t need any but if they hit a penny I do. There is also 2 wifi range extenders at the 3 price and should penny out when the routers do, I will take a pic of them tomorrow.
I’m also still looking for a compressor, with such a subtle difference I should be able to find one mixed in. I saw a few at the beginning and they were sold or “hidden” at the 4 price.
I look in the battery recycling boxes everytime I’m in HD and grab the packs with lithium ion’s in them, 95% of the packs I find are ryobi packs. Which is not a bad thing, typically they have samsungs or lg 18650’s and only 1 cell is usually bad.
Have you ever tried to replace just the bad cell? I was hoping to find some dewalt batteries because that’s the tools I use. I don’t own any ryobi’s or I would fix one of those. If I can find a dewalt pack I was going to attempt to fix it.
The black and decker car battery booster has a 2A USB out but its simply a linear USB device, the 2000mAh batteries will charge my phone once despite its 6 battery setup, i found that very annoying, should be able to charge it 4-5 times.
Bort,
I think I have that same B&D Battery Booster. When I used it to charge my phone from about 10, it charges it up to 100. But after just 1 charge the LED indicator light goes from Blue thru Yellow to Red. That means it is time to recharge. That in and of itself is disturbing.
But tonight I ran a fully charged Booster thru a resistive load and measured and timed the results. It ran for 3 hours 27 minutes before shutting down. The current wavered around 1.78A and the during the discharge the output voltage was about 4.78V. So during the test the output Watt Hours was
3.5H x 1.78A x 4.78V = 29.78WH
Inside there are 6 Samsung 20Q’s in series, and the WH rating of those 6 cells would be 3.6V x 6 cells x 2AH/cell = 43.2 AH
So about 70% efficient.
Buck converters are usually more efficient that boost converters, no?
picture of my unit
Ah I see what you mean.
Very interesting, so that means the indicator lights are wrong, i don’t have one of those current devices but i did go by the lights and recharge time vs current in and came to the conclusion that it was a linear driver instead of a buck driver.
So that means when i think i’m storing it at 40-50% charge (5V USB pulling out 1200mAh) i am really storing it at close to 70%?
I guess the 2 hours to gain less then 1/3 charge means the CV phase is very slow.
Thanks for the info, and I need to completely rethink its discharge level before storage.
Another possibility is that full charge is not 4.2V, if they really thought it through they would charge to 4Vish since most people would store it ready to use. Does that make sense with how much juice you pulled out of it though?
Maybe the Red indicator light means it is time the recharge if you intend to use it to boost your car
The thing for me to do now is take one apart, charge it fully and check the voltage across each cell.
Perhaps as you mentioned, full charge isn’t 4.2V across each cell, but something lower.
Also I would like to see what the voltage across each cell is when the indicator light first turns red.
I don’t expect you to go out of your way to do this but if you do i will be very appreciative 
Bort, I had noticed that the indicator light turns red too after just one phone charge.
It had bothered me also, but I never really looked into it.
Somewhere in this HD thread I did a tear down of this B&D unit and I may have already done some testing.
I can’t remember :person_facepalming:
This item IS a Home Depot deal, although it wasn’t dealed at all stores at the same time. Some stores may still have them on clearance. It was an $80 device that I got for $20.03
I really like mine, I have used it several times to boost the old worn out battery in my van.
Just a couple of days ago I finally got around to replacing it with a $100 battery that I got at Home Depot for $24.03 two months ago 
I did not consider that the light going red could be wrong, it did seem to add up, half of 2000 mAh battery plus some overhead meaning red light does seem reasonable.
I have not needed it to boost the car yet but what i have been doing is every 3 months recharge then discharge to just before red light so that when i do need it all i have to do is charge and use it. If i’ve been keeping it at a high voltage that would suck.