People mistakenly think it is bistro that is the issue when it is actually the X6 driver design that is to blame. That was before we started adding the extra components to fix the voltage spike issues. Namely the resistor before the diode.
RMM took a different approach, instead of stopping the voltage spike he bleeds it off via the zener diode.
These drivers work well with single higher voltage leds (i.e. the XP-L Hi in the BLF X5 and X6), the drop-to-moon problems arise with the newer low voltage leds (i.e. 219C, XP-G3), and possibly even just in case of triples/quads.
Ah, so it’s not me. Richard’s driver is better. Got it. 
Also since it’s being discussed, my high powered lighted lights do exhibit some switch timing changes, like others have said. They get shorter, but not much. Really I have to be looking for it to notice.
Seems that the same temperature/heat issue has been reported before at page 23 of this thread. Seems odd why it only happens with a lighted tailcap. The workings of the OTC is strange beast indeed…
The OTC will be effected by heat with or without the tailcap. It all depends on how how the light gets and how well heat sinked the driver is to the body. In my pocket rocket the timings can change by as much as half.
This is why we are trying to do away with the OTC all together to completely rid ourselves of that issue.
In my case, the timings shorten so much that the light thinks the fastest half-press I can humanly do is too slow to even switch modes!
If you aer using the banggood drivers they use really bad OTC caps and this is quite common. You can replace the cap with a good X7R cap and it will vastly improve things.
Unfortunately, we can rule this one out :(. I’m using a nice X7R cap supplied by Richard. Timings do not shift at all when there is no lighted tailcap.
Then the bleeder and/or the tailcap current is not correct. With those properly set I do not notice any difference. If they are not right then it will effect things for sure.
I have found 560ohm bleeders to be the most relible myself as long as the tailcap current is kept below ~.3ma, I generally go for about .1ma
Yeah I can report the same using 470 ohm bleeders (cause that’s what came in my kit). Timings do shorten, but its not so much that I even notice it during normal usage. I have to be paying attention to notice the change.
Finally, I successfully illuminated a McClicky switch. I posted about modding one a page or two ago but was never able to make it work properly in that light. The driver just didn’t “bleed” enough and nothing I could do made it happy.
Fast forward a week and a new host shows up. This one went much more smoothly. I already had a modded McClicky and only had to do a small amount of filing and grinding to make it fit this host. I swapped the emitters on the board, screwed it in, and added a bleeder to the 105C driver that came in this guy. No problem. It’ll eventually get a new driver when I decide how I want to build this thing, but this works for now.
So here it is, a copper Okluma TinyDC with a glowing orange tailcap:
has anyone manage to get the illuminate taillight to work on forward switch?
I did, literally the comment above yours.
Anyone add a bleeder resistor to a zener modded driver and get tail light switch working?
oh 
i never have McClicky.
im still having issues with other clickies. The taillight only switch on when the light is on 
Supfire S1 small 16340 tube light, fixed BLF-A6 driver with 460 Ohm bleeder, 219C R9050 SM353, switchboard with 50K pot under the spring, lighted ring with 3x 3.3 kOhm and 6x slow colour change 0805 rgb leds from ebay.
Fun is that the leds are not completely autonomous, they slightly influence each other’s timing and actions so that the cyclus becomes partly chaotic.
Wow, that is actually really cool looking. Got a link to the LED’s you used? What is the tailcap current?
The leds were these (sorry for the dutch ebay link): http://stores.ebay.nl/ktelektronic/0805-blinkend-/\_i.html?\_fsub=13428809017
Tailcap current was about 1mA with the pot fully open.
Very nice, djozz!
Nicely done. Those slow changing ones are interesting looking, much better than the rapidly changing ones that someone else had tried.
Also, I haven’t yet put a bleeder on a BLF A6 driver. Do you have a picture of where you placed it?