Then the bleeder and/or the tailcap current is not correct. With those properly set I do not notice any difference. If they are not right then it will effect things for sure.
I have found 560ohm bleeders to be the most relible myself as long as the tailcap current is kept below ~.3ma, I generally go for about .1ma
Yeah I can report the same using 470 ohm bleeders (cause that’s what came in my kit). Timings do shorten, but its not so much that I even notice it during normal usage. I have to be paying attention to notice the change.
Finally, I successfully illuminated a McClicky switch. I posted about modding one a page or two ago but was never able to make it work properly in that light. The driver just didn’t “bleed” enough and nothing I could do made it happy.
Fast forward a week and a new host shows up. This one went much more smoothly. I already had a modded McClicky and only had to do a small amount of filing and grinding to make it fit this host. I swapped the emitters on the board, screwed it in, and added a bleeder to the 105C driver that came in this guy. No problem. It’ll eventually get a new driver when I decide how I want to build this thing, but this works for now.
So here it is, a copper Okluma TinyDC with a glowing orange tailcap:
has anyone manage to get the illuminate taillight to work on forward switch?
I did, literally the comment above yours.
Anyone add a bleeder resistor to a zener modded driver and get tail light switch working?
oh 
i never have McClicky.
im still having issues with other clickies. The taillight only switch on when the light is on 
Supfire S1 small 16340 tube light, fixed BLF-A6 driver with 460 Ohm bleeder, 219C R9050 SM353, switchboard with 50K pot under the spring, lighted ring with 3x 3.3 kOhm and 6x slow colour change 0805 rgb leds from ebay.
Fun is that the leds are not completely autonomous, they slightly influence each other’s timing and actions so that the cyclus becomes partly chaotic.
Wow, that is actually really cool looking. Got a link to the LED’s you used? What is the tailcap current?
The leds were these (sorry for the dutch ebay link): http://stores.ebay.nl/ktelektronic/0805-blinkend-/\_i.html?\_fsub=13428809017
Tailcap current was about 1mA with the pot fully open.
Very nice, djozz!
Nicely done. Those slow changing ones are interesting looking, much better than the rapidly changing ones that someone else had tried.
Also, I haven’t yet put a bleeder on a BLF A6 driver. Do you have a picture of where you placed it?
That is wild djozz
Love it.
Thanks guys, it is way more bearable than the fast rgb leds that I tried before.
Here’s a USA seller with what looks like the same leds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-0805-SMD-Slow-7-Color-Changing-3-5-4-5V-20mA-RGB-LED-US-Seller-/262158976697
Thanks, I think I will have to grab a set of those just for fun.
Is there any difference to apply a bleeder resistor to a zener modded driver?
Yeah thanks Djozz, ordered some myself. I’ve never tried any of them, at any speed, but your video is trippy. Looking forward to it.
nice one Djozz
I have both versions and i like both depending on my mood 
I tend to look at fast spin is when im in happy mood and slow fade when i want to chillax hahah
That is really awsome. I think I will buy some RGB an d some blinkie leds
Is there a picture somewhere identifying which one that is?
And where to get one of those?
Just trying to nail down the references.