where did you got your GITD stuff and how to get it on the flashlight that way
Dome on, reflector .020” off the board with plasti-shim, no centering ring 238kcd.
Will be making a correct centering ring out of Delrin and shaving it later, just ran out of time! Saved all the stock parts, didn’t want to alter the stock ring.
It was a bit of a PITA build! 
Glow On Film…
I have the Glow paint and the Glow film. The film glows all night, just not as intense as it’s first charged, but in complete darkness, I can still see it in the morning, I think it said up to 12 hrs? I use a razor to cut strips and a Precision shim punch for dot’s and centering rings. It works great in triple/quad optic builds too. Just lay the strips or even the dots on the mcpcb, or the leads, as long as it dosen’t interfere with the legs locating, or the optic being held up off the board, it looks great thru the optic’s! The Glow film is pretty powerful, when I use it for centering rings it will cast a beam when fully charged!!
Glow-On and here is the film Purchase - Glow-On
Quads and triple Glow On film…
Switch markers tail cap ends
Centering rings, cast their own beam
@KawiBoy: Cool build and pictures! Must be 4500lm?
@Rbd: was that a 101-AK you started with? That sounds like a really nice driver 
DQG Spy XP-L HI V2 1A
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EagleEye X2R 18350 Shorty with Nichia 219c 5000k and lighted tailcap
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and
Dunno if anyone has one of these, but the Lumintop SD26 is a real nice light. Easily fits 26700's, and worse size protected EVVA cell I have, just over 70.0 mm. Think'n it's a great candidate to run a SANYO 20700A or B cell in.
I started on the mod - will be using a TA triple driver, actually the TA 30mm TA designed for the Convoy L6, but will use a Schottky diode instead of an LDO - easy to do. The 26 mm MaxToch XP size MCPCB fits perfectly, so plan on using a XPL2 V6 2B from KD in it. Running Narsil of course, supporting the green LED's behind the semi-transparent switch cover.
There's no reviews or info on the SD26 posted anywhere, but It's a real nice 1,060 lumens (what I measured, rated at 1,000 lumens) or so compact size 26650 light.
Bezel was glued but easily broke the bind with grippy gloves. Driver was also glued down, probably using thermal epoxy, but broke it loose using a solder pick thru the LED wire holes - no damage.
Got any pics Tommy? I too was interested in the SD26, sounds good to me…. :+1:
I have been running the 20700A’s in both my modded UT 02’s and both my modded Malestrom MMUx3’s.
Yes, I do got pics - been taking them as I go, but have a ways to go. I'll post here soon, when I get further along. Should be able to fit the TA 30mm triple even with all the 7135's mounted, because there's a small driver mounted stiff spring. I'll loose the USB charging of course, but that's usual. The stock driver is a two tier design. What I like bout the light is it's compact size - the side switch hole actually overlaps with the reflector space, but there's no ill effects. The switch is mounted in the side of the light, SRK style, with 2 LED's. MCPCB is standard height, so no need to play around w/height. They use a small single screw in the MCPCB shelf simply to keep the MCPCB from spinning - it actually doesn't hold anything down -- interesting, but this is why many lights come with only one screw populated.
It's actually a simple e-switch mod - I've worked on many far more complicated.
Ohh - it also had, what I think, is a temp sensor mounted on the stock MCPCB, which is alum unfortunately. 2 small wires, 1 is ground, ran to a small SMD component on the MCPCB - they say it has temp monitoring so that's what it probably is.
Cool… looking forward to this one….!
Klarus XT12GTS
Mod is here with a lot detailed pictures
I’ll post a review soon (when i actually have the light) on SD26 .
I upgraded my quad Convoy M1 to Nichia 219C D320 5000K and a MTN-17DDm driver with Bistro firmware :
Battery is a Sony US18650VTC6, this is the most amps I have seen in any light I have build.
How do 219c domes fit with khatod optics? If you didnt melt it yet
I think it’s a very good fit, maybe not perfect but very close :
Hj CRX. How did you get the bezel open? I have the SS model, cant get my bezel off.
Quick mod…swapped out the black switch boot on my copper Tool.
WOW
would you like to post some info about them,please ?
do you have beamshot comparison, please?
The M1 is not in my car, I feel it gives a great all around beam and output for that kind of situation. Also it handles the heat surprisingly well. I REALLY like that setup. Hotspot is a bit tighter then a P60 host but the OP makes for a very smooth beam and evens out the tint shift.
The S6 is a nice light as well, if you are not worried about the CRI this is a really great pocket thrower. The S6 reflector is the best throwing tube light reflector I have found and the OP means the beam is pretty to look at as well.
I still use a TIR in my EDC S2+ though as I find that it is more useful for things past ~20 feet.
The C8 sized light is a skywolfeyes tly-739. Not a very good host by any means but it does have a very deep reflector that is about a C8 sized. It is a little laser pointer with the sliced done oslon. Tiny little hotspot but it throws quite well. Think it was around 500 - 600m of throw? Pretty good for such a small host with an under driven LED, it is only around 2-3A IIRC due to the host not being able to handle more.
The triple S2+’s are a lot of fun but not the most practical light for EDC IMO. They are very floody, which is great if you will be using it within 10 feet or so. I will carry a triple if I know this will be the case. For anything past 20 feet the single LED works much better. The triple has to kick into turbo in order to see 100 feet and then it gets hot in about 60 seconds. The single LED on the other hand can see a solid 100M with 1/3 the power and basically never gets too hot to hold.
I have come to like the 15011 triple lens, I actually get higher lumen readings with it vs the 15007. The 11 lens is also a lot smoother and more enjoyable to look at. It works great with XP-G3’s.
The biggest things I have learned is that CRI is worth a bit of output loss in most cases.
The 219C 90+ CRI is a beautiful LED.
The XP-L2 is an amazing single LED option if you want max power, you just need to combine it with the right reflector to make the tint shift acceptable. The 4000k 80CRI 3 step binned XP-L2’s are really impressing me.