XP-L2 V5 Output & Death test by Texas_Ace Over 2200 lumens! Still worked after 15 Amps!

Seems like the 319A Ra8000 will probably hit in the middle between 219C and XPL2, closer to XPL2 I guess.

I kind of doubt that the 319A will reach XP-L2 levels but it should improve on the 219C.

The weak link in the nichia setup seems to be the thermal pad setup, it is much smaller then the Cree version and as such it seems to top out at around ~20W vs the 40W that Cree seems to reach before reaching max lumens.

I just compared the two MT-12’s outside.

Like I figured in the real world and not on a whitewall the tint shift pretty much falls away to almost unnoticeable.

The XP-L2 is basically larger then the 219C, larger hotspot, larger spill and large output in turbo.

In the 3.15A mode they are a lot closer since the 219C has a more intense hot spot it plays tricks with your eyes making it seem brighter in some ways while dimmer in others (in reality the spill is a fair amount dimmer and less of it).

The hotspot itself is very good on both, about what you would expect from a 80CRI to a 90CRI.

For raw output the XP-L2 is very nice in a larger reflector.

I also got my hands on a few different models of the XP-L2. There are 4 versions floating around that we would be interested in that I have seen.

They have 2 different 5000k and 2 different 4000k model numbers. One of each is standard easywhite bin and the other is some kind of more specific bin.

I put one of the more specifc bin 5000k emitters in a hugby XP-1 and it actually has a reasonable tint compared to the other 5000k I used. No tint shift around the edge of the beam and the beam itself is much whiter as well. Now it is a much smaller reflector thent he S2 but still, it appears that the non-easywhite models are the one to get.

I have some 4000k that I will be putting in some lights tomorrow, just not sure which ones.

Finally getting a bit of time to finish building the lights I have collected over the last year.

Oh, that XP-1 is making ~650 lumens with the stock driver, mcpcb and hair thin wires. Quite a pocket rocket. I could get a lot more out of it but I don’t think the tailcap could handle it and I would need a DTP mcpcb. As it is I have $7 invested in this.

I tested an XP-L V5 as a comparison and the results were interesting. Keep in mind the lower Vf of the XP-L2. When compared by wattage the XP-L2 is slightly ahead of the XP-L the entire time. AKA, the XP-L2 is more efficient overall.

Also in the real world the lower Vf means we get much better numbers from the XP-L2 then the XP-L since we can pull much higher currents.

Hey TA, did you get a chance to test out those specific-bin 4000K ones? Guessing you got these 80 CRI, V3 E5 bin ones (XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV30E5). Whatcha think?

Wow 10A and still going up! Creezy!!
You really need to start looking for higher DC power supply to feed your DPS5015 (is it?)Tex! :slight_smile:
These new LED limits are going higher and higher each year

I have used a few of these now and found that I really like the 4000k 80CRI V3. It is a little different model then the one you posted and I could not figure out the exact difference between then when searching other then they are binned differently but both are rate at 4000k and 80CRI.

In these cases I find I generally have better luck with the oddball codes vs the easy-white codes. I think these are 3 step vs 5 step but not sure. I even called Cree and they could not tell me what the difference was.

I have one of these in a convoy M1 making 1900 lumens and a really nice tint. Tint shift is not much worse then last gen XP-L, CRI is good and lumens are great. I have been considering trying one out in my EDC but just have not ordered one.

XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV340G

Now I’m cornfused. According to the XP-L2 datasheet (on page 4), XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV340G is the code for the Easy-White (3-step) version. :weary:

Edit: according to Cree’s FAQs, the intent behind EasyWhite is to reduce LED-to-LED color variability. Sounds like tighter tolerances, not necessarily anything different about the emitter itself.

Yeah, thats what I think the difference is, 3 step vs 5 step.

Whatever it is, I find that the 3 step binned ones generally look better.

Sounds like it’d be a good emitter for diving lights or submarine fixtures, then! Can’t beat this power/luminosity proportion when the heating problem is solved by the sheer amount of coolant all around :smiley:

Oh, and that’d be a [+S2+] build, I think… haha

Just ordered parts for a S2+ triple XP-L2 V5 4000K setup (with a Mtn FET+1) from Mtn Elec. Can’t wait to get this little flame thrower assembled!

That will be one pocket rocket. Remember that you will most likely need to slice the domes on the XP-L2’s to fit under the optics.

I would also recomend the 15011 optic over the 15007, I get higher lumen output from it for some reason and with my XP-G2 triples it vastly improves the tint shift.

Richard states the triple XP-L2's fit the 15007 optic as-is, but for the 15008, 15009, 15010, and 15011 it requires the "XPL mod" to fit. He has a way of widening the optic - not sure if the widening method has been published. If you get the "XPL mod" for extra $1.50, no need to slice the domes.

Yeah, I saw that note and hope it’s the case when the parts arrive. I’ll make sure to check fitment before tightening things down. If necessary, I’ll probably slice (vs the mod). I think I’ve heard the mod described before as drilling out the recess a little with a modified torx bit or end mill bit.

My tests seem to correlate with what is stated in the first post. Ran upto 10amps on a beast of a heatsink and it was getting brighter up until i passed 10a. Great LEDs should have no problem whatsoever direct driving on 4.2v

Hi Tex, after 10A did the base of the dome lifted/separated from the phosphors?

Not at 10A but it did somewhere between ~12A and 15A. Not sure exactly when but my guess is around 13-14A is when it started.

By the time I reached 15A the dome was starting to burn which is part of why the output was reduced.

My XPL’s dome separated at ~10A. Improper heatsinking I think

Geez you guys and your crappy heatsinks, gotta step up your game!