I'd be in for some Mag C heatsinks for the Rebel reflector. I'd probably even go for a Mag D heatsink with the same reflector. Depending on price, I might go for 2 of each.
Ill have to talk to him about the head and see If I can find a supply of reflectors that will work well. What size head would everyone like? 55 mm would be huge on the p60 format but would increase the throw tremendously. I was thinking of a pill/head combo that would increase the body contact and actually act as a real heatsink. I would like to keep the price of the heatsinks at 6 or 7 bucks max. The copper pills fiqure to be 8 to 10 bucks depending on how many I make. Still a ton cheaper than on CPF. I have some design changes in mind like a thicker pad for the led to sit on and a few others. I think the heatsinks could go as low as 3 or 4 bucks, but I would have to do a decent amount. To get it that cheap. All speculation till I know more, but will let everyone know when I find out.
This might be a long shot but a copper head for a L2 and similar that will make flush contact with these so we can just add some thermal paste and drop it in? The aluminium heads and tin foil or copper tape are poor heat sinks. Maybe similar to L2T heads but smooth copper with some shallow cooling fins? I'd pay a reasonable amount for that and I think a lot of others will too as its a very popular combo.
I'm interested in any other P60 parts though depending on what you come up with, Ill subscribe to this and see what happens.
If I had several people want that many, the price would be even better.
The head I was thinking more of a c8 style with a full contact heatsink as a pair, if I make one that is. Like I said lemme know your interest and I will see what we can do.
Heh…good luck with that though. The copper alone in a D-mag heatsink would cost close to $5 probably. Maybe in aluminum and mass produced by machine you could get it down to $5.
In copper even $10 would be dirt cheap. I will be pleasantly surprised if it's much below $20 a piece in copper since I've only seen aluminum versions for sale in the past and all were over $20-$25.
Make some that will compete with H22A offering on CPF, and compatible with the mag rebel reflector and you’ll be Making hundreds a month.
Also don’t forget about us guys that asked a while back for the custom one!
I should be able to have them within a month or less. I just wanna get a feel for interest, so I can get an idea on how many to make for the first run. The mag heatsinks would be aluminum and the material cost would be about 1 dollar per sink. Copper would be 10 bucks or so per sink, plus it wears the tooling more. I gotta give the guy making the run somthin for his trouble, so I am shooting for 5 or 6 bucks a piece. Still way cheaper than the H22A heatsinks, and they would work with the rebel reflector. Would there be more interest in a C or D heatsink? The rebel reflector does not really need a pedestal for the led to focus like the regular mag reflector, so I may make the flat top so you can use 20mm stars for them. The reg mag heatsinks need a pedestal for focus.
I will make the heatsinks for the people who want them for the quad or triple xpg stars, I just have not had the time I thought I would to do it. Will prob have them in 2 weeks or so.
Well I am still trying to figure out myself whether to go with C sized Mags or D sized. I'd probably go with a couple of each. Instead of being "flat top" would it make more sense to have a very small 20mm pedestal (or recess if that works) in order to assist with centering the star?
Since I already have a few D mags I'd like to use for this I'd have to say I'd prefer that size. It is also my intention to get into the C models eventually so whatever you come up with I'd go for at least a couple or more at that price. If "D" sized count me in for 4 at $5-$6 a piece. If "C" sized I'll take at least 3 or 4.
As for dimensions, I understand that the 50mm aspherics require 30mm of focal length and that means the emitter (on a D size at least) needs to sit a few mm inside the body to get the head past the o-ring on the threads. Making them this way will allow us to use aspherics as well as the reflectors. If you do go with flush I really don't care as I can just grind off some material from the head of the battery tube to get the o-ring seated properly inside the head.