I got a bunch in already, and a bunch more due in this week, including the Y3's! Thanks DEL!!
Wow. What a mission. Well for me it is anyway. I have just happily, after many failures over along period of time, managed to build my first working driver. Its the 15mm SK68 driver by WarHawk here.
I used an old 7135 driver for parts that never worked, flashed the MCU with TK’s Biscotti and we had light. To everyone involved, a big thanks. Yes there were lots of you here that has helped me over an extended period of time from soldering, flashing and answering many questions. YAA HOO.
You finished! ;-) I guess you have better luck with drivers than with motorcycles. That driver looks great, by the way. Congratulations.
Thanks Richard. Now to assemble it into a light. 
Usually, with you it is "now to machine a light from bar stock to fit the driver..."
Not quite this time. I’ve used this light peering down machined holes for along time now. Its ideal being a small zoomy being able to adjust the beam pattern to suit what your looking at. However it had a next mode memory driver with the dreaded flashy mode. The pencil mod on the capacitor only made it cantankerous. Due to a suitable driver not being available put up with it until now.
Another chip was added to make it five in total with an XPE2 Torch led used for lighting purposes. Shims were added to only allow the zoom I required. Dont laugh to hard at the flashlight itself. Yes it was cheap and very nasty. 
Congratulations, I have mixed success building them. Bad eyesight and short, thick fingers but still game.
I've done a few of those a while back using different drivers, FET and 7135's. They go pretty fast, hard to keep them around. I shorten the sliding piece to create a wider zoom area - works for most of them.
Nice Tom. So there are athers thatspend far to much time on crappy lights. I’ve got an Ultrafire that seems a lot smoother on the zoom and slightly larger lens that will get the same treatment next.
Not to mention shaky hands RBD.
Nice. I also have a few of those lights around...stock, FET, FET+7135, and boost (AA). Nice little lights.
Any 30mm FET+7135 Driver boards ??
The TA30 can be used as a FET+1 if you want although populating all the 7135’s is better.
Any 15mm board (fet only , single channel like this ) that uses an LFPAK56 FET ?
Becuase now i use one of these boards with a fet installed upside down
The TA15 is a 15mm board and the compact version can be sanded down to 14mm. It even has full 3 channel bistro compatibility but can be used in 2 channel mode as well or even FET only if you tweak the firmware. It uses the LFPAK33 FET, which is more then enough for any light limited to a 15mm driver (or much larger for that matter).
I want to ask if someone has tested if ToyKeepers Crescendo FW (Ramping for clickys and if i understand it right it is a Narsil mod FW) is working with the 17mm TA driver?
I love the ramping in Narsil so to get the option for a clicky paired with this nice driver would be sweet. I would test it myself but my oshpark boards are still on its way and i still have trouble to find a source for the SIR800DP or the SIR404DP FET here in Germany.
I have no idea on this, I only discovered that it existed yesterday. I am quite a bit out of the loop around here due to very limited internet time recently.
I think TK said something in the TA driver thread about having a version that should work with those drivers.
The little bit I understand about it is it's not based on Narsil, it uses a power switch (clicky) to do ramping, and does not have e-switch support yet. It's main goal is to have ramping on a clicky switch light, and fits in a ATtiny25.
Im sure this has been discussed before but…
I had problems with SRK drivers based on 7135’s. It works only lower modes and full. Depending on input voltage, it will just turn off when trying to use mid to almost high modes (like 100-254). I found that if i move that C1 to before D1 it works much better. And i understood that it should be like that because otherwise MCU could get voltage spikes and that’s the reason for these higher modes not to work.
Now i saw that DEL’s latest 7135 driver has resistor before MCU Vin, so this is the correct way to fix this issue? Maybe with this way i could make these SRK 7135’s drivers to work correctly?
SRK driver i mean is this:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/vni3pdfB
What MCU are you using? For the 25/45/85, they can be unstable on the old-style OSHPark you linked. This is why all our new board designs have the extra resistors: R3, R4, and R5 (R5 sometimes is R6). Out of those, the most important one is the R5/R6 4.7 ohm that must precede the D1 diode. I've modded some standard 13A drivers by cut/jumper, and tombstone in a 4.7 ohm resistor.
Im using Attiny13A with these.