Jaxman E2 measurements (Nichia 219B, bargain high CRI 18650)

I’m not sure if there’s a technical definition for wide-spectrum, but I was aiming for something like a normal CRI curve except a bit wider and flatter. So, more light high and low in the spectrum and less in the middle, for an effect similar to a vivid colors post-processing filter. I made it by mixing four Cree XM-L2 tints.

Unfortunately, pictures don’t really show the difference. Maybe I can get my spectrometer working eventually and show it in spectral form. I don’t have a way to calculate CRI or color temperature with it, though.

The High-CRI test of this light made me buy it for a reference. I got a 4K and a 5.7K, just looked at the 4K so far and I like the beam color characteristics. The UI is well…. not for me with blinky modes in the main loop. The light is a bit lower output than I expected, but should be fine for my hi-CRI uses although I may need a diffuser for that will not change the color. The manual is kind of funny, and is obviously written in the event you get a kit with a battery and charger. The good thing about the manual, 1 you get one, and 2 the print is large enough to read. I won’t list the cons of the manual because you guys will never read it :slight_smile: Mine came in a much smaller box than shown in the OP. It can fit a pretty long battery, probably 70-71mm, I used the new Lumintop USB rechargeable battery (LM34C) which is really too long for many lights (the length may kill this product) so I was happy it worked here to test this light so I didn’t have to rob a battery from a working light.

If you have a soldering iron, you can change the UI of the E2 driver by soldering a star. When you “solder a star”, you connect the inner half of the star with the outer half of the star with solder. You don’t have to make the solder connect all the way to the edge of the driver.

Rotate the driver so the stars are facing down towards the ground:

  • Jaxman E2 driver
    No stars : L - M - H - Strobe - SOS
    Left star : M - H
    Mid star : L - M - H
    Right star : M - H - Strobe

And in case anyone’s interested about the Jaxman M8 driver:

  • Jaxman M8 driver
    No stars : H - M - L - Strobe - SOS
    Left star : H - M
    Mid star : L - M - H
    Right star : H - M - Strobe

Until monitor display and camera sensors developed to show/capture true wide spectrum, the only reliable way to share CRI picture report digitally is to read the measurement graphs - and trust the result.

Can anybody specify how about PWM (flickering and sound (whine)) mentioned in first message

I think he mentioned that on Low and Medium you might encounter a slight visible effect of PWM if you try hard but that you are more likely to hear a very low sound of the vibration. I think that’s pretty good.

Does S2+ have any PWM?

Thank you for answer, my english dont are very good.

About S2+
In here mentioned, that “All Convoy lights with 7135 drivers use 4500Hz PWM” I think that taken from candlepowerforum so S2+ 4500Hz and E2 3900Hz

nice to see my shower waterdrop test to detect and measure PWM

“E2 3900Hz” it’s not PWM, it’s pulsation (~20-25%), light output don’t drop to zero.

Convoy S2+ (8x7135) PWM is not visible to me, but it’s clearly audible in medium and to a lower extend in low mode. An audio spectrum app in my phone shows a peak at about 4.6Khz (and multiples) if I put the head of the flashlight next to the phone, which is consistent with the frequency of the PWM.

That’s pretty cool so your phone app could identify flashlights by their sound.

That’s how I had to measure it before this fancy Fluke showed up. Well, that… and just eyeballing it. You know you’ve been playing with flashlights too long when you can tell the approximate PWM speed of pulsed light up to 10 kHz just by looking at it.

true. correct, and true
the key point is the light is NOT Constant Current, it is pulsing, strobing, flashing, or whatever other nonConstant adjective you prefer

Does anyone know which Nichia is used in the 4000k E2? I got mine a few days ago and it’s really yellow compared to a Lumintop IYP365 (also 4000k) and not rosy at all. On “high” the hotspot looks almost creamy. I’ve read the 219C has more yellow in its tint, so maybe they chose this and not a 219B like in the 5700k version?

The tint isn’t bad at all, but not what I expected.

Btw, I can’t detect any PWM. It isn’t visible in waterdrops nor can I hear any noise from the pulsation. I was a bit concerned when I read all the post about it, but the actual implementation seems to work fine.

My only other light with PWM is a Nitecore Tube and I can detect it in both “low” and the various “mid” modes.

Falling water isn’t a very effective way to detect PWM. It can work for slow PWM, and it looks really cool under a party strobe, but it’s not good for checking PWM above a couple kHz. And on true constant output lights, falling water can still appear to pulse because the droplets change shape as they fall.

It should be easier to see by waving an index card or similar rapidly through the beam.

Using that method, here’s one at 488 Hz (slow) and then one at 4.5 kHz (what the Jaxman probably has):

I know I should investigate this further just for the sake of it and to give a bit back to the community, but for the moment I’m glad I can’t detect it. :stuck_out_tongue:

I’ll try in a few days with a DSLR.

Reminds me of my younger days….
It was 1997 one of my race buddy had a problem with his brand new Honda NSR150R bike. He reported that the temp always went up to 3/4 hot or more. I checked, tested it for several days, and nothing was wrong. Later, he told me than the problem occurred only at the traffic stops (this bike didn’t have cooling fan behind the radiator), the only time he ever look at the panels at the dashboard. This guy never pay attention to the meters during riding, not even the speedo! And the traffic can be real jammed, no moving air to cool all the engines there.
It was the time when fanless water/air cooled engines were the norms. Most engines were overheated during heavy traffic, but only few noticed that because….temperature sensor/meter was something unusual for production bike in that era. I remember when the light turned green, almost all the overheated bikes accelerated with heavy smoke and knocking/pinging sounds!
I explained all the theory behind engine cooling to him and guess what he asked me to do? Please remove this meter out of my dashboard!
OMD! hahahaha :person_facepalming:

- Clemence

We’ve come full circle because the cars I work on now have no temp gauges at all. Try finding a temp gauge in a modern Mini or BMW (non M). You’ll get a check control message as the car is overheating meanwhile the car is already in fail safe mode. BTW I bought one based on this review, although I ordered a 5k neutral I got a 4k warm white and can’t be happier.

Hm, I bought a Jaxman E2 early on.
Mine has no solder on any of the three stars,
and it’s giving Low-Medium-High, with no memory.

Hm, is there a good way to temporarily connect the gap in the split stars to find out what they do on my light?
Maybe a #2 pencil will do it? Nope.

solder and desolder. It’s easy.
You can use desolder vacuum pump followed with solder wick for (almost) clean result