Some notices to DQG Tiny 26650 V3.0 (post by designer and producer: GEORGE)

Easy guys. I believe the post your talking about had been edited before you read it as T18 mentioned. Lets keep it nice and show yishenger what a terrific honest place we have here. :slight_smile:

Hi, T18, thank you very much for you post. here I can see my mistake of assembling now. before the glue is solid, I will check the light is work fine or not. if not work fine, I dispart it, slove the problem then assemble again, Obviously I make wrong side of the battery tube, becuase it is mirror design, so, the tailcap glued with the tube when glue is solid.
about the diameter of the cover ring, it does smaller than the host in design, to different size, its mechinical result, every size have its tolerance, such as +–0.1mm, the biggest can large smallest 0.2mm is accepted as common rule. but why tiny 18650’s ring not come out? because I use a little thermal glue on electric component will hot, but in these days, I find the thermal glue cannot do help: because before the glue solid, the ring cover is displaced already by tighten tube action; and wost, the thermal glue always will lead bad electric contact due to its leakage, so, at current 18650’s, the ring cover will drop out when dispart the battery tube.
and good find about the switch nob relationship to the rubber button, it will lead bad press action if they not contact each other. due to soldering shift of switch, PCB and host etc tolerance, there does will have this problem, it also why I try to dispart it and assemble it again, then displaced the battery tube.
very careful observation, thank you very much. and also should apologize to you about this mistake.

nice to meet you. I have an english dictionary!

Hi, Boro, don’t complain T18, I think he is a serious man, I like his detail post. maybe something he is not famillar.
about standards: in mechical field, there have many differant requirements, the tolerance are difference. highly Accuracy size should use very special designed device to manufacture in order to maintain same demmession. for light or other like products, usually don’t need so accuracy tolerance, otherwise nobody will Machining for me for so little quantity. but, I think accuracy is our goal in every field for every product if can and economic.

Hi, at current, I think only 7*XPG2 can make as small as could and power nearly reach XHP 70 (with refelctor or optics), XHP 35 HI suit for thrower, so, I now have no plan. maybe future designning tiny thrower will consider them.

Any chance of a 21700? I’d buy tomorrow. Literally.

Hi Boro, good to hear from again,

I sure wish I could explain to you what goes on in the background but I really don’t think you’d get it and beside I really don’t care what you think or what you say about me so please if you do anything today, just go rest your neck please…!

Thank you MRsDNF and LightRider, there is more here than meets the eye.

Funny thing and Boro mentioned how I delete posts, sure I do and I had come to delete the text in my post because it serves no purpose any longer because the pictures did speak a thousand words, and they have been seen and my post didn’t really need a thousand words on top of it all as Robert pointed out to me, George is aware of the issues and now just how to figure out what’s happening I guess.

I was the one who suggested to Banggood that maybe George would like to come meet us at BLF, then Banggood messaged back and said he was here, wow, sure didn’t really expect that or this from Boro, but what’s new.

Now off to start a new business writing negative posts, boy if I ever post a review here it better be completely positive or who do you think would be the first to comment?
Ha Ha

Hello George thank you for coming to BLF,
I was trying to explain driver retainer to Banggood and finally suggested maybe you could come meet us here at BLF and you came I am very happy to meet you and I do love all your products,
I am the guy who dedome all six outer LEDs when I removed the bezel… ha ha, sent picture to Banggood now tint is very yellow 3000K, maybe they send picture to you?

I got light to hot and forgot to press down on the optic when I turned the bezel and I removed all domes from outer LEDs, I can’t do that good a job removing LED dome when I try to deliberate.
Banggood try to tell you that I needed a new driver and then they told me that you said I needed a new driver and the reason driver and retainer feel out was because I admit to Banggood that I removed the bezel… ha ha ha
I had to tell Banggood what it says on your product box, about NO disassemble or no warranty…
They didn’t know and I told them I disassembled your light so I know I have to warranty and was only trying to explain the problem with retainer and driver falling out but words in English to Chinese get confused. ha

No apologies needed for me, I am very happy with product George and it is easy to fix but thought you would want to know and told that to Banggood.
I have many of your lights and as you see in pictures 2 of the 26650,
I think I have all your lights, and I do mostly understand the complications for you in manufacturing and machinist tolerances etc…

I understand how the glue got on the end cap, easy to make that mistake when you have so many tubes and end caps and glue ha ha ha,
I thought it was funny or strange at least strange thing to see, but no problem I just fix it and used silicone around the retainer lightly after perfect alignment with switch.

So now I understand difference in tolerance from 18650 and 26650 I did not understand difference, smart, that’s why you are able to stay in business, good business from smart man…!!

Yes a longer nub on switch towards rubber boot or a little stiffer longer nub in rubber boot… Don’t know which is easier for you or cost but it would be a big help when you alignment of the switch, very difficult to get perfect alignment of the switch when assembling lights, and when doing alignment of so many at one time like you do at manufacturing.

Thank you for coming George and I look forward already to your next light.
You are the best George… and thank you again.

Hello George,

thanks for your post, it´s always nice to be able to speak to the real creators of flashlights. I was just about to pull the trigger on a DQG Tiny 26650 V3.0 but the only thing that keeps me from getting one is the LED and tint selection… It seems from all the reports that the two xp-g2 tints you offer in your light are either very cold or very warm… right now there is no real neutral neither a hi cri version vailable. I´m a huge fan of the 4500-5000 K nichia 219b/c LED tints and so are many users in this forum I learned… any chance to have a new revision with Hi CRI neutral white LEDs inside? I´d be willing to sacrifice a few lumens for a nice tint and hi cri…

Thanks and best of luck for your business!
K.

Sorry, did I hear him right ? Don’t disassemble ?
Yeah right……

crz, you have to keep in mind that only a small percentage of those that purchase a flashlight have the ability to successfully mod it. Many that have tried on this light have damaged emitters, switches, driver… this is a complex and tight build, it’s not for the beginner class for sure.

Shining the lights on a white wall inside your house is one thing, but taking them outdoors is another. The differences become less. IMO, both are excellent very usable lights

DQG 26650 Tiny 3 Cool White

DQG 26650 Tiny 3 Neutral White

Exactly! In real use those tints are very much acceptable! White wall hunting is not a very good indicator of a flashlight’s potential, not sure where it got it’s popularity.

Stick a cell in it and enjoy it!

I like the tint on the NW. I use it every evening in the backyard. Checking on my tortoises, terrapins and turtles and keeping snails out of the torts garden of food.

Yea, I’m diggin this light.

No offense but may I ask if those are mobile phone or compact digital camera shots taken in automatic mode? If so, the camera/phone tried to adjust the white balance automatically, making those shots look almost identical and unusable for tint comparisons. It´s not easy even with a DSLR and using RAW mode to get proper representative images of LED flashlight color tints.

Besides that, I´m definitely not a white wall hunter. I use my lights indoors and outdoors and simply enjoy hi CRI neutral tints to get accurate colors from the subjects I illuminate.

The cardboard box of the Tiny 26650 III has a “hi cri” option written on it… but no hio cri version exists yet. So I was just taking the oportunity to ask George if a hi cri version is planned.

K.

Point taken. Guess I’m a bit of a flashaholic now. Can’t look at a flashlight with out thinking, What could I do with this ?
In the process of doing a MT-G2 2D maglite mod.
I’ve damaged a few things myself.

Hi George, will these drivers be available for purchase? I’ve bought 3 of these and the last one I received worked for 30 sec. and the driver quit working…smell of burnt electronics. Sorry if this has been talked about already peeps. I had limited time this morning and want to get this puppy running again.

Thanks DB for pointing me to this thread! Are you in Austin?

YW. And nope, Austin’s too weird for me. :wink:

Trying to figure out how that driver could have gone magic smoke on ya, seems likely you had a short somehow but George took precautions to prevent that. Which makes me wonder if something got jarred loose in shipment…

Hi George.
It is off topic but I can not resist to suggest idea for future flashlight. Zebra
18650 like titanium headlamp lighter and smaller than h600.

Hi George, I received my beautiful grey Tiny 26650 V3.0 today. This is my first DQG light and I am very pleased. :+1:

The finish is excellent, and the light is very comfortable to hold. I like the UI and the warmish neutral tint.

I have a question. Is it normal for the light to make noise in turbo mode? I understand this could be “inductor whine.”

Sometimes it is a high-pitched ring, and sometimes it is a hiss, like an air leak.

I can hear it at a distance of one meter when the room is quiet.