Got mine today here are the tail cap readings:
TF Grey( 4.18v/4.18v)
H - 1.40 Amps M - 0.61 Amps L - 0.14 Amps
H - 1.39 Amps L - 0.15 Amps
TF Flame (4.18v/4.18v)
H - 1.35 Amps M - 0.58 Amps L - 0.14 Amps
H - 1.35 Amps L - 0.14 Amps
No, it won't be brighter, coz it is fully regulated. BTW, can it take such a high voltage? Had the impression that it can only take 2 cells. 1 cell also won't work.
Yes yes, I know, digging up old threads and everyone has this already on the shelf...
I have a mild rant on these.
Battery tube is short. You can barely fit Xtar2600s in and that barely means hard pressing :|
If you want them to be comfortable, you´ll have to leave either the tube or the tailcap slightly loose...
Any real world experience of running STL-V2 on 3x16340/18340 vs. 2x18650? How's the heat generated or runtime - and what about the reliability? What brand/type of cells have you been using?
I wait for mine, but I will try to run it on 4.5A... :)
tried 3x16340s but never looked at runtime. also had 2 18500s without the extender. 2x18650s will give the most runtime due to capacity as it is in series at either 2 or 3 cells.
I've got a STL-V2 ordered from DD in November. Just wondering whether somebody is able to confirm the existence of Low Voltage protection?
I'm asking this because I was running it on unprotected batteries (Trustfire Flames 2400 also from DD) for a while and after checking the remaining voltage of the batteries I had to carry the other one out-of-doors in a hurry because the battery was hot and the voltage was just above 2V. The voltage of the other one was 3,5V at that time. On the other hand I also wonder whether this difference in voltages makes any sense because the batteries are in a series. Could there be e.g. such a huge difference in the internal resistance...
From the numbers up top its 2.99v per cell. you probably had a weak/defective cell there and probably advisable to dispose of it.
^ OK, thanks. So it seems that if the other cell is not good the LV protection did not kick in even the total voltage was less than 2x2,99V at least in this case.
I was actually running STL-V2 for a total of 120 minutes on high (12x10min, 5min break in between) and it was still going quite strong:
vs. on fresh batteries:
A control shot:
(Note: I did not intentionally embed the images)
BTW. What budget (un?)protected 18650 cells would you recommend when taking into account the STL-V2 stock driver i.e. quite low current and the existing low voltage cut-off feature?
What price? 6$ you have protected Hi-Max 2600 (+shipping) which are ok, cheaper you may get 2600 unprotected sanyo (shipped) and that't it I think.
I got my STL today, at home we'll se what current we have there, 4A in led will warm it up a little, hope that new KAI driver fits there :)
For my copy, yes. I was testing some 18500 IMRs this way.
BTW, having LV protection does not mean it is safe. The driver (budget driver to be exact) can still go POOF and give you a dead short. Probably IMRs would just fry something, but regular Li Cos have a high chance of venting. Not all batteries will vent of course. And that is still a persistent risk. I know you din't mean it that way, but just to say it out loud. :)
Quite expensive shipping. Based on latest review Trustfire "3000mAh" are decent cells, real capacity of 2500-2600mAh fot $12 shipped/pair.
We need a GB from Dinodirect!
But seriously the TF Flames 2400 latest ones that came to me and Cheap Thrills from Dinodirect, all got very close to 2400mAh @ 1A. (Benckie's got a few which got close to 2500mAh) The SKU number is different from the batch that some folks had "issues" with ie unprotected, which i wouldn't complain as they were "free/giftcarded". Even the 8 unprotected the one which i randomly picked out to test got 2498mAh.
I would spend 12 bucks on these 3000mAh cells, if they do a real 2800-2900 like the NCR18650 which i tested as well. Else 13 bucks for 4600mAh worth of 18650 juice from the TF Flames 2400mAh is better. Still runs a very long time in most lights in med/low, more than most would ever need, and 2 pairs in the STL-V2 would last you for a week's of blackout. (spread this over multiple flashlights)
TF Flames 14500 and 16340 i've got over 700mAh. So far all my TF Flames branded stuff are the real deal. So i'm really waiting for HKJ's word on the 26650.
Yes, there is a possibility that a budget light driver may present a dead short if it should ever fail. The Sky Ray 3800 triple XM-L is a good example, there are still good copies running ok here, but there are also a number of failures that presented dead shorts to the batteries. Quite a number = i'd believe at least 30 cases here and CPF.
I am not sure if it presents a dead short in your 504 light's case after it was zapped with reverse polarity (human mistake), maybe you can measure the current draw with a DMM.
Yes, turn a flashlight off immediately when it knoks out, should you ever have a mix of unprotected and protected cells. You will never know.
There are some documented cases, a good high profile one is that Trustfire X6 and of course that Solarforce L1200 incan. Unprotected ultrafire and not sure which one. Happened just last year bro. Even IMR could vent (Sony Knion, the green IMRs).
This is why 18650/18500/14500s are not consumer products that are sold in counters. It would be nightmarish for the manufacturers with regards to lawsuits.
"Updated" Fandyfire version with deeper reflector. Looks interesting
Need help with drivers:
Are there any 4,2V -> 8,4V drivers suitable for this, with max two modes, no strobes?
Having problems to find any 8,4V suitable for this and enough juice for XM-L...
One of kaidomain will fit, I will try sst-50 driver, 3 xml driver is fine, gives more light, but overheats quickly without beeing sunk in thermogrease.
Got link for this?