Supfire A2. Supfire's cute little zoom 18650 side switch.

I was wondering about it too, I will have a go at measuring some numbers tonight :slight_smile:

Thanks friend!

Ok. Good news. The charger is working correctly. I temeasured using my multimeter and got a reading of .65amps of charge current. My benchtop meter must be incorrect. I just installed it all and started using it so there may need to be some calibration to get it to read properly.

Here you can see the unit is charging and able to light up the led at the same time. Note the power reading of 9watts. This is incorrect. It charges at a bit over 2watts or .65amps.

The red indicator leds flash until the battery is fully charged.

It draws 50ua of power in standby mode. Not bad!

I mixed up some thermal adhesive to stabilize the piggybacked driver and add a small thermal path to the host.

Installing the led in a little bit! :slight_smile:

I now have a supfire a2 zoomie with charging running Narsil and pulling 4.3amps from the dedomed origional led:) There was some uneccessary complicity to this build but I learned much. Most of all it looks as if our driver boards can run parallel to an onboard charging circuit!

Great job, I’m jealous of your A2 performance, I like that flashlight a lot, apart from the stock driver! Does this free me from measuring the A2’s charge current, as you already found it to be 0.65A ?

I think that you are right about the desirability of a BLF driver with inbuilt charging, but using it will always require a suitable host with microUSB opening, or else you will have to create one. It will never be an easy mod and at this moment only few lights are suitable.

too long for EDC in pocket…
sorry…
wle

Agreed.

I am still searching for a replacement for the Aleto N8 zoomie. It’s the shortest 18650 zoomie I could find and had decent build quality including heatsink fins. Unfortunately, I only found one supplier of it ever (on Ebay) and haven’t seen it for sale in well over a year. Wish I’d bought more of them at the time as it made a great mod host.

Supfire A2 looks beautiful and well-made, but it is far too long. I’m not sure how much length I could shave off by modding it and still have a decent looking light.

Yes. There is a lot of wasted space in the head… well, not in mine:)

Congrats on the working light. :beer: Amazing mod.

Thanks:)

I did a simple check of the Supfire A2’s internal charging of a Samsung 30Q battery. I started with a fairly empty battery, at 3.32V, and just recorded the current delivered by the USB source and every now and then I took the battery out, measured the resting voltage, put it in again and resumed charging (this could be the cause of the not so perfect curve). At the end, with the battery at 4.19V resting voltage, the current instantly dropped from 80mA to zero, that looks like the charger actively stopped charging which is a good sign :slight_smile: I checked: upon disconnecting the USB and reconnecting it, the flashlight started charging again at 80mA and after a few minutes dropped to zero again.

I did not check if it is the 100% correct charging curve but it looks not bad to me.

I’m getting one of these lights, and am debating between djozz’s approach of bypasing the resistors entirely:

And LightRider’s technique of adding R100 across one of the R500:

If I do R100, what size resistor would I shop for? I do not have a stockpile of electronic components to pick through yet.

Google seems to indicate that they come in standard sizes:

Ever since djozz mentioned bypassing the resistors without trouble, that is what I have been doing with good results. Actually I’ve just been removing the r500s all together to keep as spare parts.

The only concern I’ve had after increasing the current is the size of the trace going from the fet to led. It’s quite small, so I’ve been jumping over from fet out to led with a small 26awg wire. You can see a photo earlier in the thread. However, this may be totally unnessisary as djozz hasn’t had problems. It just gives me peace of mind.

Thanks for the update. I did indeed see that picture earlier, so I will do that!

Have you tried and liked any other LEDs in this light, or do you just stick with de-doming the original XM-L2?

My mod thusfar was always with dedomed XP-G2, the right one, together with ‘streamlining’ the current path, gave just over 50 kcd.
(here I wrote about the mod)

djozz, I definitely read that thread and got good info from it. My plan with this light is actually to sell a few to coworkers, and the criteria here at work would either be higher overall lumen output, or high CRI, moreso than maximum throw.

My thought was basically two different lights they could pick from:

  1. High output: XM-L2 U4 1A (dedomed if they really want more throw), or
  2. Nichia (various types, I bought a variety in clemence’s GB).

I can’t imagine why a Nichia would not work OK, but I figured I’d ask.

I might build a de-domed XP-G2 for myself though. :+1:

If you try a nichia let’s us know. I’m curious if it will allow for more current because of the low vf or if it is already maxed for current, the output might be noticeably less that xpg2 xml2. XPL hi is an option as well. I really like the 3D tint. It gives less throw than xpg2 and dedomed xml2 but the factory dedome has some silicone to protect the phosphor and may add some reliability. Any selection will give you a nice light though:)

Would low last 10 hrs?

I just had to :smiley:

Moved recently and found the A2 I purchased from Tom E. Just wondering about the runtime, planning to do a camping trip with my family and friends. :laughing: