Review : Utorch UT01 Flashlight (XP-L V6 / AA & 14500 / e-switch)

Ah, by the way I measured the total length of the lamp everything tightly screwd down and its
84mm long weras the specs say 82mm.
So maybe they use now a longer tube?

I would try a 10mm x 2mm round magnet outside of the Tailcap fixed and covered with sugru.

Google: Sugru magnets
https://www.google.de/search?q=sugru+magnets+ideas&oq=sugru+magnets

Thanks Joe.

The driver should not be lose, at least neither of mine are.

Does it work if you remove the tail cap and touch -B to the end of the body tube with a wire or paper clip?… it should.

My total length is just a hair under 84mm

No, it doesn’t light if I short the tail.
I am going to mail the seller.

Yeah you got a bad one, that driver board needs to be in there solid I think to make electrical contact. I just tried “picking” at mine with a fingernail on the +B input button and it doesn’t budge.

I opened my DOA flashlight and test driver. Driver works Ok, button is dead. I need to replace button.
I find type of button: TL3340. And all shops with this button not ships to Russia :frowning:
Sanctons? :slight_smile:

Sorry, I tried it with my magnets scotch taped on the outside. One is not enough, two stacked could work. My 10x2 were rated as N52, but I am not shure about it.
I read a Skilhunt H03 a 18650 light uses a
16 x 2 mm magnet on 0,5mm wall thickness, you should use this.

Joe

Thanks for the update Joe.

Bob

I just received my utorch ut01 today
and my first word:WTF
the switch is broken completely(very hard to turn on, switch mode, press 10-20 times, only 1 times work)
the positive contact on driver board is DIRTY, the most dirty one i have ever seen
AND THE WORST IS
Gearbest Sent me wrong color temp( i ordered 5000K, and they sent me something much Warmer than 5000k)

i dont know what should i do now, I WAITED 20 DAYS just to recieve this light

mrheosuper, have you tried cleaning the contacts?

No, but the problem is the switch, become sometimes it works for seconds

As you mentioned this on your above post, “the positive contact on driver board is DIRTY, the most dirty one i have ever seen”, I’m thinking why not clean and check the contacts are good before blaming the switch?

Just a thought…

i will give it a try
but very likely it’s because of the switch, many people have reported same problem like
i lost the lotery :frowning:

btw, i dont know why my light has a very warm tint, warmer than astrolux s2 3d 5000k, i guess it’s about 3500-4000k
but utorch ut01 doesnt have “warm white” option, strange

my Manker E11 is very warm too, much warmer than neutral. Like a yellow-ish beige. I use it late at night for its warm-candle glow. Although with a low CRI, its really nothing to get excited over, IMHO.

[EDIT] But I still think its in the “neutral” 5000K-ish range. Its still considerably more pale than my Surefire incans. I really don’t notice it until I directly compare the two on a white wall.

Yeah, i think it’s not 5000k
at first i think they sent me wrong one, then i checked again

One thing for me personally in regards to LED tints, the temperature I see heavily depends on what color my brain happens to be pre-calibrated to. Staring at the pale-blue colors of the BLF forum for example shifts my perception to a colder nominal, so then when I look away everything looks slightly warmer. Try this… white wall hunt with your warm tint light and note its color temp. Get a yellow-orange construction paper sheet and hold it right up to your face. Shine the light at the paper with it up to your face and stare into the bright orange color for 10-15 seconds, blink a few times. Now go back and white wall hunt… what tint is the light now?

Will try it, when i have time and orange paper(:P)
I know our brain is not perfect, today i use ut01 all time, and now all my flashlight’s tint are silghtly cooler

I had the same issue with Manker U-11. I won this light and requested NW tint but tint is yellow. Closer to 5A than any other tint. Nowhere near 5000K. Shit Tint Happens…

:smiling_imp: