Copper p60 pills and mag heatsinks-gauging interest.

Well I am still trying to figure out myself whether to go with C sized Mags or D sized. I'd probably go with a couple of each. Instead of being "flat top" would it make more sense to have a very small 20mm pedestal (or recess if that works) in order to assist with centering the star?

-Garry

Since I already have a few D mags I'd like to use for this I'd have to say I'd prefer that size. It is also my intention to get into the C models eventually so whatever you come up with I'd go for at least a couple or more at that price. If "D" sized count me in for 4 at $5-$6 a piece. If "C" sized I'll take at least 3 or 4.

As for dimensions, I understand that the 50mm aspherics require 30mm of focal length and that means the emitter (on a D size at least) needs to sit a few mm inside the body to get the head past the o-ring on the threads. Making them this way will allow us to use aspherics as well as the reflectors. If you do go with flush I really don't care as I can just grind off some material from the head of the battery tube to get the o-ring seated properly inside the head.

BTW, thanks a bunch for doing this!

Johnny

I could do a small recess to center the star, but it would only work for one size star. It is certainly easy enough to center the star without it just by looking down through the reflector though.

Hey u-235, i'll be in for 5 D size for single XML build with rebel reflector, and then 5 for multi-LED build such as a 3XML/3XPG as Rich as built if you could make some heatsink for that type of build too, as seen in his thread here that I'm sure you've seen: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4219

Or maybe something like this for triple builds only, or something similar to "der wichtel"s triple xml heatsinks on CPF.

I could pay early for all of these above if they are possible to make when I pay for the 12 XPG heatsink you are making for me for the if you need funds to get this project off the ground (not sure how much cash you were having to front for something like this).

Super! Can you do it for a C size for mine, instead of the D?

Rich

+ 1

I've got a Solarforce L2P and I'd be interested in stuff that can allow my UltraFire XML drop-in to make better contact, I'll also be interested in a new empty pill which makes better contact to the sides (but what reflector would I then use) and I'll also be interested in a empty pill which could take a triple led board, and driver board at the bottom.

Can we perhaps get a few rough design sketches? I'm new to flashlights, and the jargon and concepts still confuses me sometimes.

Thnx for your effort!

I am talking to the guy about the mag heatsinks at the moment. I will prob do a run of these, and then look at doing something for the p60. Unfortunately there is not a lot of room to do much in the way of heatsink mass, but I have an idea for a better pill. Only problem is there are slight differences to hosts, so I may have to do something specific to say solarforces.

I will keep you all posted on progress.

thanks for the update

Watching again since all watching posts got reset.

I think custom P60 Heatsinks, something similar to how the Malkoff M60 looks like would be cool.

I'm yet another person in for D size sinks that work with the Rebel reflector. I was just going to hack up an H22A sink so that it sits further down in the tube, either by chopping off the "post" or the lips so the entire thing slides further down.

If you could make basically an H22A without the post and at the right depth to allow the head to thread almost fully on the body, that would be awesome! :)

+1

I'd be in for a few, depending on the price.

Looks like a heatsink for a D mag with rebel reflector and some type of p60 are the top 2 things.

Two questions

1) would you want the heatsink to be for a standard mag with the rebel reflector, or the rebel mag? They are different so will need to be made different.

2) do you want it flat top or with a post? From my experience the rebel reflector will focus well without the opening being recessed past the led, and a flat top would give more star options and let you use a 20mm star for better heat management. If you need to sink it more to focus you can shave off a little on the reflector. This generally will not hurt the beam.

I think a flat top would be fine. I actually use the 12.8mm XM-L's from IlluminationSupply and it would work awesome with just a flat top as it fits in the reflector opening perfectly.

I didn’t realize the LED Mag and reg. Mag differed in size. How much difference is there? Is it slight enough that you could build the the bigger one and we could file/sand, etc . . . to fit the smaller one? We are talking different body diameters, right?

I would want the heatsinks for the incandescent Mag D's. I didn't think that there was any significant difference in the ID of the mag body, but a difference in the dimension between the switch and the end of the body. I don't have a Mag led to compare with, hopefully someone here can confirm this or tell me I am full of it and should lay off the crack for a while.

In terms of post/flat top, I would prefer flat top. This will make for easier modding and easier upgrades when the next generation emitter is released.

And thanks again for putting in the time, effort and leg work to put this together for us.

I'd like to see an aluminum heat exchanger "collar" that would press fit onto a Solarforce L2 head. Ideally it would run the full length of the head from the anti-roll flats to the bezel and have fins tall, thin, and densely packed enough to be a functional heat exchanger. Most of the finning I've seen on lights looks to be too shallow, thick, and spaced too far apart to be anything more than decorative.

It seems to me that adding mass inside the head (big copper pill, etc.) only delays the light getting hot while a properly designed heat exchanger would shed the heat to the surrounding air so it doesn't get the chance to build up.

Sound reasonable?

Tony

Tony, are you spying on me ?

I started working on that very item last night.

Must be a heck of a thrower and pair of binoculars I've got to see into somebody's workshop in Chicago from Charleston.

I'm really interested to see what kind of results you get. That idea has been lurking in the back of my head for awhile but with no lathe I've had no way to build one and test it. A001 head is the closest I've come and the fins on it are more decorative than functional.

I would be all over that!