Well, if he were gluing it with JB Weld nobody would be getting into the light. It’s the exception to that “no glue is indestructible” rule of y’alls. (preserving the light, being key. If JB Weld were used the only way in would be through destruction.)
Arctic Silver is also tough to break, worse by far than Red or Blue Loctite on threads. So there are ways to make it impossible to get in and keep the light intact. I’ve had my issues with Loctite Red, but the 5” jaws on my lathe can hold a light really well and so far I’ve gotten in to everything I wanted in to…
Ironically, it’s the modders that make it necessary to glue. Or a select few with modding intent. Those that get into a light, damage it, then want it replaced on warranty. The only way to make sure your warranty is good is to glue a light so it’ll be stable for the masses and show the tampering for those that break in and kill em. Like the chipped lens issue. When the manufacturer takes steps to ensure every light is as perfect as they can make it, then have somebody want to exploit the warranty, it’s got to be exasperating. I’ve even glued lights myself, to keep that tampering out of a difficult build. (yes, even to keep MYSELF from further messing with it)
I’ve seen a rare light that the mcpcb was glued in so good it was easier for me to mount the head in the lathe and turn out the emitter and mcpcb rather than spend a lot of time trying to break it free with heat or whatever. I’ve even cut through complete drivers that way as well.
A guy’s gotta do what a guy’s gotta do…