a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L

Thanks for clarifying, got it.

I admire your confidence, you would be great as a reseller of Jaxman flashlights or someone who would do customer service in the western world. :slight_smile:

No really thank you djozz, I was wrong for what I posted and I was also wrong about what irritated me to begin with, so as I mentioned if someone brings their personal feelings to me and says what’s bothering them as you did, you told me you felt offended, also that my post made you not want to come to this thread any longer, not exact quote but close enough, so being I am who I am I just do what is right, respectful and honorable and keeps this community in harmony, well until next time I guess… ha ha NO problem djozz I have a lot of respect for you personally and I was just wrong, end of story… :slight_smile:

What I’ve been fired already?
Oh, sorry misread your very nice comment, thank you, and who says I’m not…? ha ha
Jaxman is my number one vendor, and has been going back to about day 4 of open for business I think, back when it was just Jax, then some issues came up where that name had been used so it was changed to Jaxman.
I’ll back this product all day long and then some and there’s been some talk but I won’t say what really but you came real close to hitting a nail right on the head actually, but there’s another man who would be some tough, established and well very experienced in those matters that I’ve sort of pointed towards to fill that sort of role really, I hope it happens, we shall see as it sure would be better for everyone IMO all the way around to have a Western Rep for a number of vendors really, Jaxman is one for sure, high quality always… Thank you again… G.

Thank goodness they got rid of strobe/sos. My new E2 nichia peeves me off to no end. Bad UI. Worst yet.

I requested No Strobe or Blinkies and was granted by Jaxman.

If you have a soldering iron, you can change the E2 UI by soldering stars on the driver.

well I dont understand everything here,but it looks like in the case of using triple xpl hi or nichias we dont need spacers?but spacer we use also for better heat transfet right?so is in this jaxman host guaranteed good heattransfer?iam blind…I dont see copper in the head…correct me

The spacer is just to make up for the lack of reflector. A triple optic is smaller so we have to fill that gap. The spacer doesn’t help with long-term heat transfer either, but it does allow short bursts of direct drive for 30+ seconds. It’s possible this might not direct drive well because there’s not a chunk of metal to eat the heat, however, the pill is quite solid yes? It will handle non direct drive just fine, a triple can actually run cooler than a single LED because it’s running at a lower amperage so they are in a better efficiency range.

Feel free to correct me still learning.

Spacers in traditional S2+ (for instance) builds are required because the height of the LED PCB + Optics != The height of the original LED PCB + Reflector. Therefore, something is needed to fill in the excess space, and a Cu or Al spacer is used because they conduct heat well. However, this Jaxman was designed for a triple setup to begin with, so a spacer is simply not needed for parts to fit. It also has an integrated shelf, meaning that the part of the light the LED sits on is actually integrated with the body of the light. This means that thermal transfer between the LED and the body of the light is greatly aided. However, having a spacer means the light will have higher thermal mass, meaning that the light will take longer to heat up.

TL;DR? This Jaxman will conduct heat from the LEDs to the body of the light to be radiated off better than a spacer build, but a light with a spacer takes longer to heat up initially.

aha.ok.but I wanted to use xplhi…thats a maximum you can get in a triple.
so without a good heatsink it will be damaged on dd with fet driver I guess

You can most definitely use XP-L HI in this light (if you can get past the glue :stuck_out_tongue: . This light will have less thermal mass than one with a large spacer, but will also wick heat away from the LED quicker due to it’s direct thermal path. This means that if you have a direct drive triple with a thermal threshold, it will heat up faster, but also cool quicker. as far as actual results vs a spacer S2+ build, I guess we have to wait until someone does it :smiley:

Hi,

I am confused about something… exactly what is glued to what in the stock light? I saw the pics earlier, but:

- is the MCPCB glued to the built-in shelf?

- is the optic (feet) glued to the MCPCB?

- is the driver glued in (and how)?

  • Are the head-to-body threads (or any other threads) glued?

My “impression” is that only the MCPCB is glued to the built-in shelf, to prevent the MCPCP and optic from spinning (and causing the optic to chop off the emitter) when screwing the bezel and o-ring in.

Is that correct?

EDIT: Clarified wording.

As far as we can tell, the MPCB is glued to the shelf.

Got me one ordered a couple of minutes ago.

  • Beautiful Gray color that I personally love so dearly. :+1: / check
  • And lots of Glue, JB Weld, Silicon, Bacon Grease, or whatever they use…………. :+1: :+1: / check - check

I can’t wait !!!
:wink:

I would love to see a 1x26650 version of the Jaxman E2L using Nichia 219B emitters.

I'd be up for a mule, as well.

Ok, thanks. That’s what it looks like to me, too.

If (note the “if”) that is the case, then, modding (e.g., replacing the emitters with some other emitter) would only encounter the glue because of having to somehow getting the MCPCB unglued from the shelf?

Maybe instead of doing that, could the emitters be reflowed “in place”? I have done that in the past with some lights (Nitecore) using a heat gun. They weren’t triples though…

26650+Nichia= :+1:

How do you specify tint on the order? I don’t see somewhere to request that?

Thanks,
Jim

EDIT: NVM I see it now.

That, iirr.

I mentioned… probably in this thread, not sure… that it looks like plain ol’ Fujik, not thermal-epoxy, so it’d be the typische rubbery goop that’s often used in lieu of actual thermal paste.

Once someone gets a light and dissects it, we’ll know for sure.

Wonderfully thick chunk o’ copper from the looks in the pic, so you could probably just shave right through it with an Xacto™ blade.

That should go perfectly well, especially with a heatgun. The emitters may wait to reflow until the entire head has heated up enough (but the driver is removed anyway I suppose), but that will not have been different with the Nitecore.