H17F - programmable driver with full thermal regulation

It’s a medium fast double tap. Yes. You can go into by accident when changing modes fast.

When programming it ramps up from minimum so you can avoid direct drive. The problem is that I think double tap and maybe the last mode are at max. I wish Dr Jones would limit the stock max modes. I was programming with a single 219B and (silly me) a high current cell. Nothing blew up but the LED would go blue after a few seconds.

Thanks, Gunga!
So I have to reconsider, whether the H17F is right for me. Would be great, if you could disable the double-tap mode in the config menu.

After programming it’s fine (no LED blue) but double tap mode can be a bit annoying. You get used to it though.

I love the double tap Turbo feature, Normal people can use the light and never enter or know (Turbo) is there :wink: , it is only the Professional Flashlight experts that get annoyed when fast clicking! :smiley: Or forget to get out of Turbo when shutting it off, next turn on BAM! :person_facepalming:

Double tap can not be disabled, but you can set it to any brightness level you want. And yes, it is fairly easy to accidentally access it.

I use the double tap to always go to moonlight mode. I try to have ML on every light that I build and it is nice not to have to go past a mode that makes so little light you cannot tell it is on, but at night I can double tap a know that it will not blind me the next time I turn it on!

I would like to echo the hope for the H17f in other sizes as well. I would love to see it in 20mm.

I LOVE the double-tap feature on this driver.

It’s what makes this my absolute favorite clicky switch driver. The shortcut to turbo works really well.

It would be my favorite if it could reverse modes. But, given all that is programmable on it… I bet there is not room in the firmware for the mode reversing bits. I do find myself using the triple down style often for this feature. But having the ability to set every brightness level is awesome.

Are you talking about acending vs descending order? H/M/L instead of L/M/H?
If that is what you are talking about you can do that with this driver.

No, I am talking long press to go down to the next mode.

Ah I see what you’re saying. Yeah that would be a nice feature to have for these drivers.

Can anyone add to the discussion from the nichia GB thread? I remember reading somewhere regarding a limit of 10A for the FET used. TA mentioned it to be more of a reisitance/heat issue and not a limit on what the FET can output.

A quad/triple will pull more than 10A and I am wondering if this driver is okay for that application?

I have not had time to test this driver in my triple 219c. I will try to get to it this week. I have been wondering the same thing. If it is an issue, it would be the get having higher internal resistance. I have read that it does.

I built an S2+ with 219c triple and H17f driver. Seems to run fine even on turbo modes. I haven’t done any readings on it but I only run turbo modes for the wow factor. So far the flashlight is running fine but does get hot quickly on turbo. I too would be interested in some scientific data of a triple 219c and H17f.

Off topic side note and I apologize for this:
Matt, I noticed in your sig you carry those S2+ xml2 and TIR optic. You should let me make you a boom-s that will fit that S2+ and a pill. I’m sold on the boom for the xml2. PM me if you want to see some beam shots.

I’ve also done a few multi emitter builds with this driver but have not tried turbo for extended periods.

Earlier in this thread it was stated that the FET on this driver has about 30 mOhms on-resistance. Larger FETs have around 3 mOhms on-resistance. So this higher-resistance FET will reduce the current in direct drive some. The extra resistance would be in the same ballpark as using a non-high-drain cell with 60 mOhms IR instead of the 30 mOhms of high-drain cells

At 10A the FET would be dissipating around 3W. It would most likely get very hot and this is probably the limit of what a small part can dissipate without better heat sinking.

Does this driver work with a forward clicky switch like the McClicky?

I’ve been interested in this driver and firmware. But never pulled the trigger at mtn. One thing I hate is turbo timers. Is there anyway to config the settings to disable the thermal regulation like you can in bistro.

Same reason I don’t use a6 drivers unless they are reflashed with no timer. I can live with a 3+ min timer. It just gets aggravating to keep bumping it up every 30-60 seconds. I use my lights on turbo mostly. Searching for critters outside. I don’t have to worry about unwanted turbo use so much. Would be great to disable to thermal sensor without doing anything on the driver.

This driver doesn’t have a turbo timer. It has thermal regulation. If you are on the fence about trying one of these drivers, just do it. This is the only driver I’ll build on unless specifically asked otherwise. Hands down the best 17mm driver out there if you ask me.

Edit: forgot to mention…you can turn the thermal regulation off if you want.

Thanks ya that’s what I meant. Like with bistro you can turn off the thermal regulation. On the outlay of the guppy firmware on rmms site I never say in the config where you can disable it. Its possible I missed it. But from what I remember it says something like tap 30 times to enter thermal and then tap or turn the light off when it reaches the max temp you want. But nothing on how to disable it.

Do you know if this is the same FEt that RMM uses on his 17mm single side fet drivers? Would would be the difference between the two drivers besides firmware?