LMAO!!!
OMG! Is he Stoned or what!
What ya growing in the Garden there T18???
Just thought I’d sneak up on him with this new light and see if he had any kling-ons, he spooks easy, thought I was thinking something else.
Spooks easy, I bet! :+1: Kling on’s? Before or after you scared the chit out of him! 
He so cute!!! 
Hello, do you think this lamp would be a good headlamp? Maybe better than skilhunt h03 for using as floody headlamp??
I don’t think the stock optic is very floody. I’m considering switching it when I make some other changes.
Here are some comparison shots vs a Convoy S2+ 8x7135 16ft/10m from a wall.
Is there PWM on this stock light ?.
Seems L & M has it.
If it has,…Any idea what Hz?.
Thanks.
Thanks for thosepics T18, gives a good overview of this light!
Your very welcome The Miller, yes some previously talked about non issues needed to be clearly put to rest and glad to have been able to do so. Thanks again.
GOT MILK?
These are not the best pics but thought I’d throw them up here anyhow, used a Convoy grey 18350 tube with the E2L head and switch and it fits and works, just thought I’d mention it.
And yes I did, I mucked up a LED, told you that board was tough to get out, so it’s only one, get the hot air out, might mention also the retainer is a little whatever you call it, bear… thin and the pocket for the driver is not very deep so it’s sort of difficult to get aligned and get the retainer on and centered, nothing unusual. Makes a nice pocket triple though, so once I change the driver and LED’s I can put that quad on the shelf.
30 kHz.
Got mine today. It’s a very nicely finished light and surprisingly short compared to other similar 18650 lights (S2+, E2, A6).
Here’s some measurements from the “warm yellow” version.
Slightly green tint in the middle of the beam but not too distracting, since the average tint is quite neutral. The outermost edge has a bit of a blue tint (relative to hotspot).
Since the light uses PWM (30 kHz) on low and mid, there’s no tint shift in different outputs.
How much shorter is it vs an s2+?
S2+ 117.16mm
E2L 114.17mm
E2L with Convoy 18350 tube, 80mm
Oh. So 3mm shorter.
Yes Sir that is correct, I suppose I could have just said that, but had all the numbers handy for someone else so dropped them all on you…ha ha
In real life as you know it’s not that much shorter by eyeball, but when you get into the shorty tube, now it’s getting into a very nice pocket friendly triple and comfortable after carrying the copper heat finned shorty quad for awhile now…
Thanks, so 30 is quite high and quite good?.
I can’t see the PWM really unless from the camera on iPhone.
I see Reylight lights are 9hz and 18hz.
Yep, there’s no way 30 kHz is visible to the naked eye.
Alright so I was talking about my troubles with the glue in the host thread, but I suppose it’s more applicable to the whole light as that is what I purchased to mod instead of waiting on the possible host. I changed my mind this morning and decided I would get it done today.
So I wanted to just swap the driver, but I couldn’t even get to the wires on the mcpcb because of the glue:
I didn’t get any pictures of my driver cavity because honestly I didn’t feel like bothering. I do have this pic of the stock driver:
You can still see some of the goo on the top left chip. There was a bit more and it was all over the wires. So what I tried to do was yank the wires from the driver side out. I knew they would rip and it wouldn’t be pretty, but I was hoping some of the goo would come with them… it didn’t. I ended up snipping them deep on the driver side and then using a thin nail and rubber mallet to push the wires towards the mcpcb and the wires went quite easy. I found out the goo is quite brittle and does not like shock very well so I just kept using slightly larger nails driving them through the stuff until it all cracked away. I never mentioned this before, but there was even a little glue on my retaining ring… which explains why that was so hard to break free in the first place. I replaced the driver with the MTN 17DD using Bistro firmware. The board is a little bit thinner than the old one and maybe even not quite as wide, but the retaining ring still tightens down on it just fine. I had to solder the leads onto the mcpcb while still glued into the flashlight head which took a little trial and error… it also isn’t very pretty, but it works. If it keeps working for me I’ll try to get some beam shots up of how it was vs now vs stock S2+ 8x 7135. I would like to get a few more optics for it so I’ll order those soon.
Thanks very much for that info.
Any idea yet how much run time you get with an 18350 on high?