thank you for the advise, a new 18650 make by titanium is on plan, seems can smaller than tiny 18650, with 3*LEDs. what do you think?
yes, there does have a little drivers will make noise due to inductor, if you can do, dis-assemble it, find the inductor, resoldering it for a try (but it is not so easy to do), although the inductor is solid one, but maybe a little displacement will lead it verbration due to high franquancy.
maybe the problem is on the inductor not soldering well, the current cannot flow steady or other electric components let the regulator IC cannot work normal. if can, try to make a checking. 
Thank you, George! :+1:
My light seems to function normally, so I will leave it alone for now.
A new even smaller titanium 18650 triple sounds very nice! I’m looking forward to that!
But here’s a request:
Because it can not be driven too hot anyway, because of the titanium (and size), my preference for the leds would be high CRI 219C Nichia’s (in my experience they work fine behind TIR optics). You would do part of this BLF community a great favour if a version of the light would be sold (without warranty of course) in which the ledboad could be removed for DIY replacing the leds, so nothing is glued.
Thanks for the detailed answer! Wow I didn´t know that it can be so hard to source LEDs of your choice - I was under the impression that there is a wide range of LEDs available on the market for manufacturers or wholesale dealers to buy from - seems I´m wrong?
Anyway, since 4000 K is much to warm for me, how can I make sure to get a sample that has the 3C (4750-5000k) LED inside? Can you name a shop that has this version in stock?
Thanks,
Kusie
yishenger,
Thank you for starting this thread and making yourself available to your customers. And a big thanks for making these awesome lights! I have the DQG Tiny 4th Cree XM L2, and this Tiny 26650 and they are two of my most used lights.
I want to tell you what happened to my Tiny 26650. I’ve had this thing in my pocket since the day I bought it. At some point the bezel/lens retaining ring came loose. The o-ring then decompressed and pushed the lens up, pulling the aligning pins away from the PCB and that allowed the lens to rotate and damage all the outer LEDs, rendering the flashlight inoperable. I am devastated. I have a claim in to Banggood and hopefully I’ll be able to get a replacement.
I wonder if you’ve heard, or anyone else has experienced, this problem? I can tell you one thing; if I am able to get a replacement, I will make sure I check the bezel daily!
That sounds awesome!!
However, unlike Djozz, I prefer XPL HI or high-CRI 219B in my triples.
yes, there have limited resource if choice LED bin.
at current, I think there only have 3C now. I don’t know several month later will be.
hi, friend, usually the bezel is tightened as could as I can, I think it will not loosen at using. if it loosen, be care it cannot be tighten simply. you should first put the oring on, then put the optics on the right position, press and hold it, last slowly screw the bezel tighten. yes, you can ask BG to buy a replacement.
There is already the PK26.
I was using my DQG tiny 26650 v3 last night for quite some time without issues .
Today , i grabbed the light , and made a long press to enter turbo , i got light for 1-2 seconds , and then nothing …
I removed the battery , and there was an awful smell .
And then opened the flashlight to see what was wrong (first time removing it’s driver) … I found the positive wire de-soldered from the driver , and the driver in this condition :
It seems it burned 2 leds also …
I’ve been wanting this light for some time……but I admit I’m hesitant based on feedback I’ve seen (since I’m in US and addressing defects or problems would not be conveniently done overseas).
Smaller triple? Oh yeah!
But will it have fiberglass PCB? That’s a serious limitation…
Titanium? For me, that’s a drawback.
How about 18350?
And XP-L2?
I find it difficult to comprehend how using a superior material is a drawback.
Virtually any reason one could name is a hunt in the wrong direction. Small is small, and it comes with it’s own limitations. Same for lightweight. The thermal issues that come from making a light small are there regardless what you make the light out of. Power and output is sacrificed out of necessity, starting at the power supply rather than the material the host is constructed of. Once that is understood, the light can be smaller and lighter in weight. That’s probably easier for me to come to grasp with because I like Titanium.
Superior in what sense?
Ti is not as good as Al for heat management.
Titanium is a far superior metal to aluminum. Strength, resistance to stains or oxidation, weight to strength ratio, and overall aesthetic dynamics. A small light can’t manage heat well, regardless of whether it’s made in Aluminum, Titanium, Copper or pure Gold. There’s just not enough mass to take large thermal content away. For a small light, with a smaller cell or absolute minimal design parameters, power needs to be applied practically. Or it will get hot. I know this because I have built hundreds of lights, in aluminum and copper and titanium. In the end, the light gets hot if too much power is applied, regardless.
Sure, aluminum can be made pretty for the initial sale. Carry it in your pocket for a few years and tell me how pretty it is. Where does all the protective coating go? How deep are the gouges and dents? None of that is a problem with a Ti light.
Ti lights can be made much thinner and yield similar or greater strength. Thinner and lighter, tougher and more elegant at the same time. If Ti isn’t your element, why are you reading and posting negatives about the use of titanium in a light? The designer want’s to make a small titanium light for those that enjoy such endeavors. I am one of those, apparently some of you are not.
The light in my avatar is a 10440 Titanium custom, making 800 lumens. It works quite well, I’ve had it around my neck for over 4 years now and use it all the time. It is 78mm in length, with a 20mm head diameter. Ti lights work, as well as any light that is designed well. Ti materials are more costly to work with, so on a budget level the products made with titanium may not be for everyone. They last longer, don’t corrode, and will be in use much longer than their inferior counterparts, and look good doing it. Works for me!
It’s not mass but surface area that keeps a light cool (in the long run).
Good conduction to that surface area is important too.
I’m not sure how Ti (usually in an alloy) compares to Stainless Steel, but the latter is no good for heat transfer.
Noticeable difference between the S41 and the S41S for example.
You’re right about the strength benefits of Ti.
The price is also superior… 
…by the way, Dale, very nice little light in your avatar.
Never realized it’s that small.
But i guess the copper section helps keep it from getting way too hot too fast also.
Thanks, the “Texas Poker” wasn’t exactly designed to my parameters, Fred changed it when he got started building it. I wanted the exposed copper fins below the emitter shelf but in the end it was touch and go with a “high end” Photon Fanatic build and he threatened to not do it at all so it was his way or no way. I designed it based on the lines of a Leupold rifle scope, the intention was to have the lower head threaded onto the copper below the emitter shelf, the ti bezel screwed on top. Should have been fairly simple, but Fred builds complicated little lights. lol (It was his idea on the naming, not mine) I got it making 135 lumens. Built a 10mm FET driver for it to get over 1000 lumens and backed up a bit with a High CRI Nichia emitter.
So yes, copper where it counts, Ti where the usage and toughness dictates.
April 29th, 2013…
And for the record, THIS was NOT a budget undertaking!