a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L

How much shorter is it vs an s2+?

S2+ 117.16mm
E2L 114.17mm
E2L with Convoy 18350 tube, 80mm

Oh. So 3mm shorter.

Yes Sir that is correct, I suppose I could have just said that, but had all the numbers handy for someone else so dropped them all on you…ha ha
In real life as you know it’s not that much shorter by eyeball, but when you get into the shorty tube, now it’s getting into a very nice pocket friendly triple and comfortable after carrying the copper heat finned shorty quad for awhile now…

Thanks, so 30 is quite high and quite good?.
I can’t see the PWM really unless from the camera on iPhone.

I see Reylight lights are 9hz and 18hz.

Yep, there’s no way 30 kHz is visible to the naked eye.

Alright so I was talking about my troubles with the glue in the host thread, but I suppose it’s more applicable to the whole light as that is what I purchased to mod instead of waiting on the possible host. I changed my mind this morning and decided I would get it done today.

So I wanted to just swap the driver, but I couldn’t even get to the wires on the mcpcb because of the glue:

I didn’t get any pictures of my driver cavity because honestly I didn’t feel like bothering. I do have this pic of the stock driver:

You can still see some of the goo on the top left chip. There was a bit more and it was all over the wires. So what I tried to do was yank the wires from the driver side out. I knew they would rip and it wouldn’t be pretty, but I was hoping some of the goo would come with them… it didn’t. I ended up snipping them deep on the driver side and then using a thin nail and rubber mallet to push the wires towards the mcpcb and the wires went quite easy. I found out the goo is quite brittle and does not like shock very well so I just kept using slightly larger nails driving them through the stuff until it all cracked away. I never mentioned this before, but there was even a little glue on my retaining ring… which explains why that was so hard to break free in the first place. I replaced the driver with the MTN 17DD using Bistro firmware. The board is a little bit thinner than the old one and maybe even not quite as wide, but the retaining ring still tightens down on it just fine. I had to solder the leads onto the mcpcb while still glued into the flashlight head which took a little trial and error… it also isn’t very pretty, but it works. If it keeps working for me I’ll try to get some beam shots up of how it was vs now vs stock S2+ 8x 7135. I would like to get a few more optics for it so I’ll order those soon.

Thanks very much for that info.

Any idea yet how much run time you get with an 18350 on high?

Great job Jtm94, and regarding your experience with that goop of whatever it is, I have to say that the pics I posted of my light showing no goop seems to be irrelevant.
I now believe thanks to Jtm94 that his experience is more likely what you’ll also experience if you buy this light built, it’s very irritating to me.
I am happy to have not gotten this stuff though.!
Really great job Jtm94, I know it must have been a pain.

Alright here is a comparison album starting with the S2+ 8x7135 4300-4500K, then the stock E2L warm yellow option, then the same E2L fitted with the MTN 17DD driver. All shots taken at 16ft/10m from a grey basement wall in complete darkness. Level 1 the moonlight of Bistro doesn’t appear and neither does level 2 really.

Link to imgur album

Would I benefit from a tail spring bypass in this? I’m going to do it regardless, but spent most of my free time just getting the driver in today. Sadly I don’t have any trustworthy volt meters to measure amps or anything like that.

This thing gets quite warm. Haven’t left it on turbo for very long, but it gets quite hot to touch the head within 15-20 seconds.

Looks to me like your E2L on high fits right between your bistro L4-5, your really pumping some lumens there, that looks really great, I don’t think you need a bypass if it’s getting uncomfortable hot in 15 –20 secs.
Fantastic job and now know where I’m going with mine, thank you for the share…!! I wonder what could beef up the heat sinking? Besides some kind of goop.

jaxman in the other thread about this light says that heating it up to 100 degC makes the goop go soft. 100degC will not kill or unsolder anything so when I receive my E2L that may be the way I go.

I am really undecided about what to buy, S2+ or E2L. Yes I looked beam shots and E2L looks better but there is like $10 difference. I think I should get this because this is new and has TIR lens.

What do you think? In your opinion $10 difference worth it?

It’s a good light stock and 3 LEDs is more efficient. It’s really your call, I enjoy both equally, but my new hopped up E2L is more fun. The S2+ will have slightly more throw, what are you looking for?

Sounds like a recipe for a BLF Brew :slight_smile:

Dear jaxman,
I just received the package with the E2L flashlight and was not happy. You wrote the value of the flashlight on the outside of the package:

If the declared value is over 22 euro ($23 dollar), EU customs will charge VAT and handling. So I had to pay an extra €18.65, which almost doubled the price of the flashlight.

I have ordered two E2L hosts from you as well, when those are shipped, could you please please please declare a value on the package that is under $20 ?
Or else this will force me not to order from Jaxman again, it will be just too expensive :frowning:
I think the same happens to all EU customers.

In these instances, just do not accept the package and it will go back then you will get your money from seller.

That’s unfortunate djozz. My E2L had the value marked as $19.8. At least we can do an electronic customs processing ourselves here and only have to pay the VAT and possible toll.

Thank you for message. I want as flood as possible, so this means E2L is better choice ?

Also, what do you think about using E2L or S2+ as Headlamp? (I want floody) . I am decided to buy Skilhunt H03 but is it better to buy e2l or s2+ as headlamp because it is cheaper and maybe even better than h03?

First impression: very good as an ‘as is’ flashlight, and a challenge for modding because of

  1. some glue in the bezel threads (luckily it is SS so it could handle some force, got it off with a piece of inner tyre and a adjustable wrench)
  2. lots of pretty hard (hardened Artic Alumina adhesive feel) gooey under and on top of the ledboard, that will be a challenge to remove.

Compared to some random S2+

The gooey, even sticking to the optic and side of the led. Very stable and no problem at all until you want to mod it.

The output on high setting is 790 lumen @30seconds.More later…