The reflector shoulders and bottoms out on the head I.D. Even shimming the mcpcb board up with a stripped board, the leads/reflector bottom interferes. Relieving or clearing the base of the reflector has to be done, use painters tape to cover both emitter hole and reflector top to keep most of the crap out, clear the interference by filing, sanding or machining, its alot of work, be careful don’t break thru into the reflector surface.
I machine the head to accept a 32mm Noctigon (XP/XHP35 build) or 26mm Maxtoch (XHP70/50 build)
Or cut/ machine the bottom out of the reflector out, and shim the mcpcb to focus…
The stock OP reflector measure 2.6mm clearance between centering ring and reflector base.
I think your over thinking things. There are already tiny fans with temp probes built in that you just feed power to. They will come on at a low level when the probes reach a certain temp and speed up as the temp rises. They are used in computers.
I haven’t seen any tiny enough for flashlight use, but I’m sure they can be built or are already out there somewhere.
In a way, the emitter and mcpcb are just like a CPU. Current flashlight designs have given us these awesome emitters/cpus, but we are still relying on big old solid chunks of aluminum to absorb the heat. That only works for a short time. You can’t cool a computer with that. It’s like we’re still in the stone age.
You gotta have active cooling or maybe use heatpipe technology like laptops use if you wanna run it for a long time. Yeah, now we’re talking.
I cut the bottom out of the SMO reflector and fabbed some very thin copper shims to play with the emmiter to reflector distance. I also swapped to new, longer screws to clamp down the emitter for good heat transfer.
I also wanted to share some info on this new FX-30 driver I got from Kaidomain. Not the Convoy version, the original.
This has a unique interface not described on the website. The tail switch puts it into standby and the side switch only has 3 brightness levels plus a strobe. You can turn the light on and off from the side switch. Very odd. I made a quick video on YouTube showing how it works and went into more details on it.
Jason, I might overbuild something but rarely ever think enough to be accused of over-thinking.
I was cutting out the reflector like that on Courui D01’s (The Fathead) several years ago. But yeah, whatever it takes. Like Kawiboy I like to machine the emitter shelf to take a 26 or 32mm mcpcb in the L6, moving the contact pads much further out and making things easier. Or using the cut off tabs from a large Omten switch to move the connection outside the mcpcb and thus allow the extra room for the reflector by not having that wire there. Kapton tape is your friend.
I don’t have any machine shop stuff. I cut my reflector bottom using an upside down router with the bit 1/8” up and slowly worked it around. It worked. Lol!
And that’s what you do, you use what you have even if it takes a bit of creativity. When you succeed, it feels fantastic! The sense of accomplishment from doing something on sheer ingenuity makes you get addicted to the modding, and before you know it, you’re spending income tax return monies on a small lathe instead of something more frivolous.
Well, it seems that We do have a L2/L6 AR glass update, the new one is better, better looking and the total candelas upped with like 4-5k( L2 host).
IT also adds more reddish in the tint thus made the L2 beam profile even better for outdoor/hunting
Update 2017-04-06
The short tube is finally available in the Convoy store. This tube will fit both the L2 and L6 and is meant for single 26650 builds, 2 cell 26350 builds and will probably fit 26700 cells though I can’t guarantee that. It is slightly longer than the older single cell tube to better accommodate more cell variations.
Yeah, it was supposed to actually but that slipped through the cracks on this first run. :weary: If/when he does another run it will have the threaded rings.
Those would probably be a bit thinner, and more compressible, too.
