Nichia 219B 4500k D220 9080 CRI Emitter output test by Texas_Ace; Amazing tint and CRI! Output is what you would expect.

I hope you post some photos of your hand with various LEDs so I can see what you are talking about

here are a couple of examples of what I mean:

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I tried to get some good beamshots at one point but gave up after a few days of messing around turned up results that were far too inconsistent and almost useless.

The overall beam is hard enough to get but the tint is another matter entirely. I could never get something that showed the tint accurately without needing me to edit it by eye to get it to look right. In which case it was not accurate but simply as good as my editing could get it.

Too much variance for me so I elected to skip beamshots all together. I tend to get a bit carried away with details like this lol.

I agree it is difficult to get photos of a single beam, that matches what our eyes see, and like you I have zero interest in massaging an image.

Ive come up with some techniques that work with my iPhone, I do not edit or adjust anything.

so if you care to venture into some experiments here are a couple of suggestions

1. Beamshots of 3 lights side by side shooting at a folded piece of printer paper

very useful for comparing beams. one of the 3 lights should be cooler than the others, it fools the phone into setting itself to that “white balance”, so you can tell relative tint of the other two lights

examples:
2 beams does not work well: (light on left is 3000k XPG, light on right is N219b 4000k)

3 beams seems to be the sweet spot (same nichia, but in the middle now, light on right is an N219b in an Astrolux M03 that I guesstimate is over 5000k… Im just using it pull the white balance so the other two lights tints look more like what I see with my eyes)

2. Handshots

useful in comparing CRI
still just a cellphone pic, no white balance adjustments of any kind
this is a N219c 4000k (Manker Lad)

this is the N219b 4500k in my Copper Worm

this is the N219b in my Astrolux M03

fwiw, here is my Astrolux M01, M02, M03, all N219b, you can see a wide variation

you can see the 219c is obviously more yellow tinted than the 219b in the above hand shots

Im very interested in seeing your comparison beams of the 219c and 219b LEDs that you have

If I ever could get the $$ for a spectrometer, I’d totally be posting nice spectral charts with CRI, TM-30, etc…

Anyone want to front me a few thousand? :slight_smile:

That’s a gorgeous LED. I would like to go put that in a very well diffused host for some work.

Check out the GB thread for these, the spectral results were posted earlier today.

I just noticed that both 219B and 219C exceed the rated lumen output

- 219C 9050 specced 240lm 700mA; Tex's test: ~255lm 700mA

  • 219B 9080 specced 220lm 700mA; Tex's test: ~230lm 700mA

It’s a good thing

Yes, I think the D240 rated emitters are actually D260, the spec sheet says they exist.

The D220 are technically within the margin of error for a D220 IIRC but also keep in mind my sphere is not perfect, just as good as I can get it.

Hmm, yes, don’t trust our BLF calibrations. The limited chance I had sofar to compare different people’s calibrations, while I expected maybe 4 or 5, it was more like 20 to 25. A humbling find!!

This might come in handy:
http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/sled.html

Those were mentioned before but it was guesstimated they would be hundreds of dollars at the cheapest.

Let me check it. If it’s not that expensive, I might buy it. So you guys can passaround it to calibrate each sphere

I have been drooling over those when they came out last year

Calibrated components always costs at least an arm and a leg… :open_mouth:

Unfortunately they do not solve the spectral errors of our luxmeters :frowning: , but they give a better absolute output reference than a couple of ANSI-rated flashlights.

Im planning buy some of this leds (when available) and build a single and a triple.

Anyone know whats the best way to proceded in DD with this led?

I know that the best is to stay around 3-3,75 Amps. Max 4. So… 10 to 12 amps in triple.

So, whats the best configuration for stay in this margen at 10-11-12 amps?

For wire i think that 22awg its the way (not 20awg)
For driver spring i think that steel (default convoy) without bypass.
For tailcap spring i think that steel (default convoy) without bypass.

And finally for the cell ncr18650ga? 30q will be too much? vtc6?

Any info?

Open to opinions :wink:

I built a triple with these awhile back and just did it like any other triple. I think I used 22awg. I have no issues with it over driving the LED’s since the Vf on them is pretty high.

Hi, i have some question
you measured the AMPS at max?
You bypass or not bypass the springs?
Cell?

Thanks for your help! :slight_smile:

Yeah, I forgot what the messured amps were but they were not anything to worry about, around 10 amps IIRC. I generally use GA’s in my personal lights but I generally test with 30Q. Either way it should not be an issue with a triple. Even if they are overdriven some it will not hurt then and it will quickly drop as the battery drains.

Where can these LEDs be purchased?

Last I knew they were out of production but maybe Clemence has managed to get more? I have not been keeping up with his stuff lately.