What did you mod today?

I am sure many of the technical solutions discussed and developed in various threads on here are 1) new and 2) not patented yet. The amount of innovation and curiosity here is mind-blowing.
i.e. “data exchange for contactless programming of flashlights via a light-emitting diode”

I didn’t do a patent search on these things but I do have access to various content providers at work.

This is very very cool, I saw this few months back in some youtube video, good chance it was on a shot show, they made software for pc where you set all preferences (modes) etc and then point the flashlight at dedidated part of the screen, it blinks out (black/white) “settings” and thats all you have to do to get custom modes.
I just hope this could be done with so widespread Atmel Tiny13A mcu.

Well technically it will be either brighter or more effitient with a spring bypass but the difference probably wouldn’t be noticeable. That said, I bypass springs in all lights that run 2amps or higher.

Patents? Hah. I suspect the patents for this have already expired. It’s not new.

There’s a Lux-RC driver which does it, though IIRC it uses a dedicated light sensor instead of the LED. It’s used in the super-expensive BOSS light. And for some reason, it has a ridiculous limitation of only 4 modes. At that point, why bother? I know someone who has one, and he wishes it was more like his Convoy triple.

What’s actually new or different is:

  • It’s open-source.
  • It can work in any host without changes. Just make sure the driver has an “optic nerve”.
  • It runs on low-end MCUs like the tiny25 (sorry, doesn’t fit on tiny13).

I only have an early prototype so far, a proof of concept. All it does at this point is calibrate itself then read a list of modes to configure a mode group. It’s pretty janky. Don’t expect anything stable for a while.

I’m using an old BLF X5 prototype for testing (bistro tiny25 driver), totally stock except for the firmware and a small wire I added. Hopefully there will eventually be drivers which include this connection by default instead of requiring an extra wire. Otherwise though, it’s a totally normal build. Cheap stock host, normal MCPCB, only two wires going between the driver and LED (s). It likely wouldn’t work with multiple cells in series, and it shouldn’t work on UV or infrared lights, but those are really about the only restrictions.

One other thing to note… While all this complex onboard-programming stuff is fun and fancy, it’s not necessarily an upgrade compared to something simple and straightforward. I think Crescendo (ramping UI for clickies) is probably better overall, precisely because it’s so simple. And Narsil’s ramping UI is better still. Why bother with a dozen buttons and levers when you can do everything with a single knob?

  1. you’d be surprised at how much stuff you think is original and new has actually been patented already

2) I would suggest you do some research into how stuff gets patented. It requires money, lawyers, and a lot of time. It’s not just “I made this, plz patent”. Also a lot of stuff cannot be patented because it does not fit the requirements.

The only real risk is if a corporation took it and didn’t give anything back… Fortunately, the GPL is pretty good at dealing with that. And publication of open code is good at invalidating bogus patents filed after-the-fact. Sure, there will be people who sell it for profit without contributing, but everyone is free to do that. And if anyone does make improvements, they have to share those improvements with everyone.

Would be nice if playing on BLF allowed us all to pay the rent, but that’s highly unlikely. At least it’s entertaining.

That is way cool Toykeeper! Will be following this! Not for me btw, low-med-high no memory does not require much app-programming. But it sounds like a really fun developement!

Recycled a dead Imalent Light

Mod thread

Tailcap driver removed and replaced with reverse clicky
modded tail cap the hard way

Contact board modded to accept unprotectec cells, sanded down
basically wow factor that they spell their own brand wrong, chineese engeneer who cant speak english?

Tube shortened 0.5mm so unprotected get more spring force, but also fits 70mm long protected
TA Bistro driver connected to contact board

I finished the Convoy C8 with Texas Avenger driver and XP-L2 led, AR coated lens and OP reflector. It is astonishing. In turbo it draws 9,3A and with OP reflector I really like the beam too. The Kaidomain DTP led base need a little filing because if you tighten the screws to head, it blocks almost the wire holes in shelf. The Bleeder resistor needs a little fine tuning because of short and medium taps timing take too long. Sorry for the beamshots. All pics created with phone.
All pics of building process can be found Here



Control shot

Bam! :slight_smile:

I have built yesterday one too. On a distance from 6 meters I have measured 68.400 Lux with dome on! How many lux you have measured?

greetings

I’m at work now. Tonight I will measure it.

great :slight_smile:

I measured 58250 Cd.
Did you mean Cd at your measurement instead of lux?

Lux at 1 meter = Candela

Ok but he sait 68400 lux at 6m

I’m looking to replace the driver of a Skilhunt H03. Any tips on how to get the light apart, from people who have done it?

I think he ment 68400 lux (cd) measured at 6m and calculated to 1m.

It will require a vice and heat but it is possible. I have done 6-7 now. I use an old leather belt with channel locks as a strap wrench. I oil the leather to keep it from ripping.

I have done it as well used wood to protect the light in my vise, best to put a snug fit protected battery in the tube, as you may overtighten it and ruin the tube
Then remove the switch cover and use wood and a smaller vise to twist on the head
heat up the connection between tube and head to about 100°C

from there its really easy to twist the head off