I have built yesterday one too. On a distance from 6 meters I have measured 68.400 Lux with dome on! How many lux you have measured?
greetings
I’m at work now. Tonight I will measure it.
great 
I measured 58250 Cd.
Did you mean Cd at your measurement instead of lux?
Lux at 1 meter = Candela
Ok but he sait 68400 lux at 6m
I’m looking to replace the driver of a Skilhunt H03. Any tips on how to get the light apart, from people who have done it?
I think he ment 68400 lux (cd) measured at 6m and calculated to 1m.
It will require a vice and heat but it is possible. I have done 6-7 now. I use an old leather belt with channel locks as a strap wrench. I oil the leather to keep it from ripping.
I have done it as well used wood to protect the light in my vise, best to put a snug fit protected battery in the tube, as you may overtighten it and ruin the tube
Then remove the switch cover and use wood and a smaller vise to twist on the head
heat up the connection between tube and head to about 100°C
from there its really easy to twist the head off
Ok, thanks for the tips. 100C with the cell inside?
Dont boil the light
Just focus with heat gun and narrow head or a small gas burner to the point where the glue is
The whole light with battery will heat up when settled maybe by 10K
I have unused zippo and rarely made fire with it, so I will turn it into real “light-er”.
This is initial mod, nothing fancy yet, battery must be detached to turn it off.
I will add reed/magnetic switch in the near future.
Cool idea!
I made a Lumintop IYP365 nm…
SEE WHAT I DID THERE ? SEE THE JOKE ? AHAH ! I’M FUNNY ! :person_facepalming:
I used this LED from Ali and a ZWB2 glass from Simon’s store
Along with my UV collection :
I think, yes, but we will have to wait until my xhp50.2 arrive and see
Today i did yet another led swap in my Convoy M1, this time sliced XP-L2 V6 5000k led. It makes about 1500 lumens and 28500cd. To be honest i expected a bit more.
At least the beam is very nice, no green hue around the hotspot at all.
How much current is it getting?
How did you dedome it so cleanly?
A lot of current, 8.5A with VTC6 and a bit more with 25R. The led it is not fully dedomed, the dome is sliced of the led as close as possible to the die and also i scraped the phospor that was surrounding the die, all i used was just a sharp knife.
Swapped the driver in my Jaxman E2L for a DrJones H17F.
I tried swapping the star too, but that sucker is royally glued in. I think to get the star out I’ll need to drill a hole through the shelf and then use a hammer and chisel. That will reduce the available shelf-space, but is probably the only way to get it out. If I try that hopefully the tube near the bezel won’t collapse while I’m hammering.
I was not impressed with how the light performed with the FET driver. The head would get burning hot in seconds. And the H17F’s temperature regulation wasn’t kicking in fast enough. Even with AS5 thermal grease over part of the driver it still got way too hot.
This is the disadvantage of pill-less tube lights. They’re better at getting heat out of the LED than having a pill…. but that doesn’t help much if because of the lack of pill they get dangerously hot in seconds.
I can run this light at the second highest possible setting on the H17F driver without having it get too hot. (2nd FET setting). Output will dim quickly as temp regulation kicks in. However, this is still better than my cut-down S2+ which requires me to have turbo set at the 3rd highest setting (3 amps).