Review : Utorch UT01 Flashlight (XP-L V6 / AA & 14500 / e-switch)

While I received mine without the switch issues, reading all the problems here makes me worried that it’ll die soon.

Loved the form factor though, and since I have a few 15400 batts around doing nothing I went ahead and ordered mine.

I highly doubt it. Switches are usually good or wonky or bad from the getgo. If it works perfectly first day or two…, it’s usually good to go.

Good to know, thanks!

I have to say i am quite pleaced/surpriced too with that tiny torch, and lately i havent been surpriced …
Great job they did realy, finaly somethign better than Olight S15…adn its quite easy moddable too

The cool white tint is lovely, white with a pink tint- the AA output is quite decent

It is my edc flashlight for over 3 months now. I modded mine with an xp-l hi v2 3b , and I’m very pleased …

Still works perfect and puts out some sweet light :smiley:

I may have to do that as well.

I ordered a NW version and it is just much to yellow for me. Otherwise it is a great light.

Bob

Where do you guys get your xp-l hi v2 3b? Also what soldering tip do you use to solder/desolder the +/- wire on the mcpcb?

The xp-l hi v2 3b i think it was from my Blf X5 …

I use a bevel tip (hoof tip) for soldering wires in deep flashlights like the C8 , and chisel tip for smaller flashlights etc .

since i replace the fauly switch, it’s become one of my fav lights
honestly i can’t expect anything else from it at its price, many mode, hidden mode, work with both nimh and 14500
i will compare it with my arriving jetbeam e10r

Sorry if I missed it, but can the switch be easily fixed or not?

Thanks

First , make sure switch is damaged . It could just be the driver misplaced , and you can easily check this by removing the tube and moving the driver a little right/left and see if the switch works .
If switch is damaged , you have to remove driver / desolder switch and solder another one .

The hardest part is finding the right switch
Replacing a switch is easy(quite tricky for new people)

The right switch - type TL3340.

Looking forward to your comparison and opinion of the JB E10R

I purchased a CW and a NW last year, just before Christmas. Both had good switches. The NW is an EDC light. The CW has sat unused with the tail cap tightened since then with a purple Efest IMR in it

Today I checked the battery using the built-in tester, and I got 4 blinks. So to answer someone's question about parasitic drain, there appears to be none, or its entirely negligible.

I measured 14uA in standby , when i reviewed this light.

If my calculations are correct , a 650mAh battery will be drained in 5 years .

So, me e10r arrived to me yesterday
After one day playing, there are something i can say
1: the build quality of jetbeam is a little better, the AR lens is better than the one in ut01
2:compatible with all my 14500(shame on you, ut01)
3:the micro usb charge is convenient, but i’m scared that one day i will lost its head when charging(it’s small, and round, which mean i could lost it)
4: i prefer the button of ut01, soft and comfortable
5: the UI is one advantage of ut01. There is delay when changing mode on my e10r, only 3 mode(1 hidden strobe). I wish it was 4 mode, with more reasonable spacing
6: the tint on e10r is(imo) better than the ut01 5000k(too warm, not really 5000k), e10r shows a brighter hotspot, too( thanks too xpl-hi)
In conclusion
Both lights are good to me
But if i need to choose one to buy, i still buy e10r, because better brand(utorch is the clone of…you know)

Hi Mrheosuper

Thanks for doing the comparison with the E10R

Anyone had any problems after using 14500?

I’ve been using Eneloops just to be safe (as if the driver were damaged it would be expensive to get a replacement into my country or I would have to wait to buy it with something else), but the output in turbo with 14500 is quite higher.

Using mine (with 14500) from day 1 , for some minutes every night , no problem at all .