if you want run higher currents through 7135 you need to pot the driver with a heat conducting material
also has the positive that the driver is better protected against recoil and impact
another crazy way to cool the driver
he sold this light this week and wanted only 90$ for it crazy on CPF I bet some people would have paid 300$ or more
Does anyone know where I could buy a replacement switch (not switch cover) for my
BLF A6/ Astrolux S1? Or if not that do you know where I can get another equivalent that would still work in the light. I allowed the internal plastic pieces to get too hot during a spring bypass. In my defense it was my first attempt at a spring bypass of any kind. Why oh why did I not practice on a pos light first. The switch works about 3/4s of the time because I only damaged on section but it is still super annoying especially since I love this light as my EDC. Any help would be truly appreciated. I have learned so much on this site, learned and acquired yet another addiction (fishing, knives and sharpeners, ecig mods, and now led flashlights)
-Joey
Originally, that was going to be a solderable way to turn memory on/off. It ended up not being necessary, but it was left in in case anyone else has a use for it.
It can run several others. Pretty much any 1-channel firmware should work, though it’ll only use one channel (you choose which). Or there are a small number of 2-channel options. I’ve been enjoying Crescendo on one of mine.
Depends on which firmware. In most cases though, you’ll at least need to set the LVP threshold to match the physical driver it’s running on. Those values change from one model to another, between brands, etc.
Turning off the turbo timer on the BLF-A6 requires flashing modded code onto the driver. The code is available, but it needs about $10 or $20 worth of other hardware for the flashing process.