gong xi fat choi...
Same to you & everybody!
Congrats on the purchase! Please confirm for me when you can if there's any PWM on the lower modes.
Specs, measurements and pictures updated.
ok, stupid question time - what happens if you stack two UCL lenses, aside from them being ~.2mm too thick...
3% each for total 6%? or will the interface between the two create more loss...
hopefully xtar will read your loss figure and use a better lens
edit: also, I asked about offering a diffuser for the S1 while discussing my defective (brand new) D06 through emails. didn't sound like they have any plans (for a diffuser, or for fixing my D06).
So i opened the beamshots of the TK70 and the S1 in separate tabs and switched between them: Only difference I can see is tint and S1 seems slightly floodier. Am I right?
2100: Seeing as you have both TK70 and S1, which would you keep? Thanks
If we compare TK70 as usd229 and S1 as usd195 for unified/recommended pricings, definitely the XTAR S1. It could be a bit lower if you are a regular with your favourite shop. The TK70 is a toilet plunger, needs investment in new batteries/charger (be it 2 x 32600 = $35 or 4 x Tenergy NiMH which is about usd 40-55 shipped for international customers, CONUS would be usd30). so much larger be it 3D length or 4D length. It is a powerhouse and is especially good during launch because it was the only brute force lumens thrower which has 90k cd hotspot, good sized corona (so even in high and medium mode you could make use of that and not develope tunnel vision) and most importantly non-proprietary batteries.
I cannot accept stuff like SR90 / SR92....once something happens to the company, your hundreds of dollars light would be useless in 2 years. It is very difficult to change the cells inside the pack. Yes new emitters will be out then, but as in today you don't see your XR-E/XP-G lights going useless.
The XTAR S1 has no green tint. Most probably 1A. The TK70 has a wee bit of green tint and yellowish corona in med and low modes, most probably 1C as also used by Jetbeam/Sunwayman.
If you want a a more diffused beam pattern, just get a LDF coat on your UCL. 0.2mm too thick is not an issue, it has double O-rings and i see that it could be a solution. It should be about 4% cut total.
The stock lens is just a bit thick, that's why the 10% cut. Else it is as normal as any other glass on budgetlight. I guess it is not easy to do that size for AR glass, they are not Fenix which can spec 100mm and ask the glass makers to cut 400 pieces in addition to 2000pcs for their Fenix TK41 and 2000pcs for TK21 and..... No contest.
The only issue i have with the S1 is that PWM!!! :P Its not exactly a budget light at USD195 so why put in PWM? thats so annoying. I wonder if they will remove it by the time they officially release it?
do you have picture when you are holding the S1??
Thank you for the review and tests, 2100. I can't afford one but I certainly want one. :)
Yes, i have posted some links above. I think the original photos came from shoudian but i can't find that thread.
Ok, ordered 2 x 72.7mm UCL. Should not rattle and from what i see, water resistance should not be compromised much (I don't dip my lights into a pail or something, anyway just change it back to the original lens if you need that).
Not that i want to waste money, but I have 3 UCLs and a UCLp with LDF for my DRYs and for big reflector lights they are well worth the money. Smaller lenses, not so much. The reflector of this light is absolutely flawless, no smokiness and is just so transparent. My Fenix TK70 has a bit of defects, one of the reflectors have some haziness near the emitter.
They even look good at ZERO lumens, serious. If you look into a normal lens, the contrast of what you see inside the reflector is much lower than that if you'd to peer through a UCL. Some AR lenses are better than others even if you are talking about non budget lights, the aftermarket UCL is one of the best ard.
Best case scenario cut is 2% range, i actually measured 0.9% for my 54.0mm x 1.9mm. Worst case 4%?
I suppose its ok to conclude that judging from your lux values, the S1 has an ANSI OTF lumens of less than 2200 when compared to the TK70?
In which case, 2800 lumens is ANSI emitter lumens then?
2800 / 0.75 = 2100. 10% for glass, 15% for reflector? Maybe.... But reflectors usually are 20-25%. So not sure...
Haven't measured the tail current, with that info i'd be able to make a better informed guess.
Measured 6.1A on a 26650 MKNE IMR at the tail. Kaidomain 32600 5.3AH measured capacity gave me 5.6A. But both are 4.1V, not fully charged.
Not sure what's the output though. Must be careful when doing highest modes and i am trying to do it long enough just to get a reading, i am not sure if the driver is straining.
That’s a couple of drys and beamtech4000’s lol. It’s huge but beautiful
I measured a MKNE IMR 26650, got 6.3A. Closed the tailcap and measured. Yep got the same 210 ceiling bounce values as 3 x 18650s. Interesting, so the U2 LEDs are not driven to the max. That's a lot of output for so little current!
Tailcap current, i used a MKNE IMR 26650 and measured 6.3A. Closed the tailcap and got the same output ceiling bounce values as 3 x 18650. That is a lot of output for so little current. In high, that 1h 35 min runtime is absolutely believable. You use 3100mAh cells, draw is 6.3/3 = 2.1A. That's 1.5hours. It's actually more complicated than that but i am keeping it simple here.
Nice looking light! Price isn't in my budget though.
I linked to one of the images at the top of the post for the teaser, and made this review Frontpage and Sticky. (Moved to 18650 flashlight reviews)
Thanks a lot!
I didn't realize XTAR had a 3*XM-L fatty and this is a beaut. I definitely want, but won't be able to consider at all because of the price tag. Thanks for the review!