Update 2017-04-06
The short tube is finally available in the Convoy store. This tube will fit both the L2 and L6 and is meant for single 26650 builds, 2 cell 26350 builds and will probably fit 26700 cells though I can’t guarantee that. It is slightly longer than the older single cell tube to better accommodate more cell variations.
Purchase link here:
L2/L6 short tube
I’ve added this info and link to the OP as well.
Damn i was hoping it would fit the tactical ring…
Ah well cant have it all hehe 
Yeah, it was supposed to actually but that slipped through the cracks on this first run. :weary: If/when he does another run it will have the threaded rings.
Aha i understand!
Lets quickly emty his stash of short tubes then, so that he can get that next run done
Well said! Buy them up people! :+1:
Ordered one single-cell tube right away when you posted it Jdub , thanks …!
Now i wish i had 2x 26350 to power Dale’s beast …
Has anyone modded their L6 to make the side switch slide out the hole?
A assumed there were 2 slots cut in the shelf the switch sits on or else the switch had 2 flat sides so that you could slide the switch out when replacing the driver.
Nope. I had the unsolder the leads. There is room for improvement here.
Why? Most people just use the light. I just pull the switch out and file 2 slots in the hole with a small rat tail file or just de-solder the switch, no big deal!
I’m gonna be running indicator lights onto the switch so I might have 3 or 4 wires from it. I can’t remember where all the wires go! Lol. I’m also trying out a lot of different drivers in it lately.
I was thinking of using a jigsaw or maybe a Dremel with small diameter wheel. I think I’ll get me a small file as well and add slots to the hole. Takes longer, but less metal shavings everywhere.
Yep I understand! :+1:
You’d be surprised how little has to be filed out when you key hole the switch hole!
It’s very thin so it’s pretty fast!
Well, I somehow must have messed up my L6 driver trying to do a resistor mod. It has some flickering and can’t decide whether it wants to run in high or turbo. I never did get the resistor in. So before I order a stock replacement driver, should I consider other drivers? Not sure these shaky 63 yr old hands are cut out for teeny tiny part soldering. Or maybe get one and have someone else do the mod for me.
I have still 3 unreserved 30mm Texas Avenger LDO drivers with latest Narsil
Temperature protection at whatever you want
Thanks for the link. Trying to understand all the options vs output, probably very interested.
Use a magnifying glass and make sure the solder didn’t get on nearby components.
There is not too many choices for other drivers. There’s the Convoy version of FX30, there is the direct drive one that MTN sells, there’s the Texas Ace direct drive one that Lexel is making and then the stock FX30 that Kaidomain is selling. It’s a bit of an odd one, with 3 levels, standby and the same output as the Convoy version.
So if you want to turn it on/off from the rear switch you’d need the Convoy one or the TA one with it programmed to turn on at the rear switch.
If you want the rear switch to serve as lockout only and on/off from the side switch, them the Kaidomain, MTN or TA versions will work.
Thanks for the run down, especially w respect to rear switch. Do you know what kind of amps / lumens the DD from Mtn or TA run? Run time impacts?
I’ve never run a direct drive/fet driver in any of my lights, so I can’t help there.
I know DD is gonna give the highest amps and highest lumens if your into that. 9 to 12 amps, 6000+ lumen.
I’ll let others with more experience answer this question.
Yesterday I made this combo
L2 + H1-A single cell boost driver from Kaidomain and XHP50.2
This is the result, no ringy at all and a very focussed beam, haven’t measured lumens or CD but it throws!!
I think it is around 2500lm, tailcap measurements shows 7A discharge on turbo from a liitokala 5000mah cell.
I put a 50.2 in my L6 with SMO reflector with modded FX30 driver, about 8.9 amps, and wasn’t really impressed. The hotspot was about the same size as my sliced dome xhp70. Output was almost the same as well, but it sucked up the power. My xhp70 only drew about 8 amps. It did have less donut shape to it, but that yellow corona is not to my liking. I went back to the xhp70.
Now a shaved dome xhp50.2 might give a tighter hotspot for more throw, but I haven’t seen anyone do that yet.
Ewww. That’s like my F13’s beam when I tried taking out the spacer to get the emitter deeper in the reflector for a little tighter focus. Lemon-yellow in the middle, Angry Blue™ around the outside.
Pulling it back out (with the spacer) at least seems to blend the colors together better, or at least does something to get rid of that.
Focus is still pretty good, but I wanted to tighten it up some.
Is it the dome that splits the colors like that? Wondering if a dedomed/shaved/HI emitter has the same issues.
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Speaking of dedoming… Quick question, anyone know offhand if an XP-G3 or -G2 is better for dedoming, or put another way, if there are any particular issues with any particular models.