I had been thinking about a driver for a 22mm cavity, and wasn’t finding many super-exciting options in that size. I hadn’t considered a copper washer, thanks for the idea. Where did you source them? I’m seeing a 10-pack on McMaster for $12.57 + shipping.
One of mine was iffy, too. Someone suggested just loosening the retaining ring, play with the switch to make sure it seats well, and then gently snug up the ring again. Sometimes it just binds, and that jiggling “fixes” it, and for me, it did.
The washers are also available on ebay for cheaper if you don’t mind waiting for shipping.
In the meanwhile, I got a bunch of these (1-mode) and posted the “mod” in a different thread.
Also looked at the 22mm driver from MTN, with 16 7135s. Looks nice, but I doubt the retaining ring would fit over the 8 on the spring side, so I’d have to custom-order one with only 8 on the component side.
Would be nice to be able to use plain ol’ common-as-dirt 17mm and 20mm drivers in this donk. 22mm seems like an odd size.
22mm is an even size, 21-23mm is odd! 
Aaauugh, yer killin’ me here…
It worked!
280Pcs Assorted Set with Box 12 Sizes (include 15pcs M16*22*1.5):
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2017-New-280Pcs-Assortment-Copper-Washers-Sump-Plug-Assorted-Set-with-Box-12-Sizes-Car-covers/1504051_32784991283.html
$12.49
There ya go…
Ouch, that’s >6bux for the 2 washers I’d need. 
I used copper washers for my F13 and F15 mods and it worked like a charm (both fitted with 17mm LD-25 drivers)
ETA: Actually I used copper washers soldered to these adapters
http://intl-outdoor.com/17mm-to-20mm-brass-ring-driver-adapter-2pcs-p-804.html
The washers were 22mm outer diameter, 16mm inner diameter, 1mm thick
Hmm, the first one I can’t tell from the pix if the driver would drop straight through, or if there’s a ledge for it to sit on.
I want something mechanically sturdy, not just solder sticking to glued-on Cu foil. Pressure from a 26650 and big honkin’ spring would push that right through.
A 16mm hole for a 17mm driver leaves at least a ½mm ledge for it to sit on.
The second washers are a little thinner, so the driver would probably just sit right on it. Not much thickness to drill a ledge into it. Not a bad price, though.
A 17mm driver sits perfectly in there. No way it will be pushed through
All I can say is that I’ve run that setup in a bike light with all the rattles and bumps and it’s still going strong after over a year. YMMV
Ah, so it probably does have some sort of ledge for the driver to sit on.
There ya go…
F13 Questions BLF,
The F13 switch stinks. Will a McClicky switch fit. Will the McClicky 11/16 screw directly into the F13 switch threads?
Hm? Whut’s wrong with it?
I’ve been using mine forever. Nice click, no flicker, feels pretty solid.
My opinion is, the switch is reverse and to me that also means backwards.
I would rather have a forward clicky.
I’m going to put a Kdlitker XHP-50.2 in it. If I’m spending the money for a mod, I want a good forward clicky to go along with it.
I guess since reverse clicky seems the norm in most of the new lights, it might be the preferred switch style. Not sure.
Maybe I’m backwards.
So will the 11/16” McClicky thread right in to the F13 tail?
Well, yah, who wouldn’t?
Most people seem to prefer RCs because that’s generally how you change modes. No one wants to have to shut off a light, select the right mode with half-clicks, then press fully to make it stick.
Those aren’t “tactical lights”, though, but more utilitarian. Me, I like to be able to flash’n’dash, typically with a 1-mode light.
If I’m building a nice bright light like an F13 (modded, ’fcourse), it should be with a FC switch, yeah. But it’s definitely gonna be a 1-mode light. I don’t want it changing modes at the most inopportune time.
Yes Sir